Sulfur, Part II

Sulfur, Part II

 

Why is it found on dehydrated food?

 

Though sulfur generally gets its bad press from the quintessential “rotten egg” smell, it by itself is odorless until it mixes with oxygen to become sulfur dioxide.  We discussed in the Sulfur, Part I that the 16th element works as an antimicrobial agent in dehydrated food, but that is not its only function.  “The rancidity, rotting and deterioration of all foods is caused, in part by oxygen in the air stealing elections from food molecules and breaking down those molecules” (Joachim & Schloss, p. 448). 

 

Oxygen


Sulfur, often found on labels as sulfur dioxide, is under the class of compounds call sulfites (which differs from sulfates).  While stopping bad bacteria and microbes certainly helps in controlling the decaying process of food, there is more than one force advancing the decaying process.  I put up a cool (although not exhaustive) chart in Sulfur, Part I about common food preservatives.  Note that sulfites pull double duty as both antimicrobial agents as well as antioxidant agents among the four listed categories: Antimicrobial, Antioxident, Enzyme Inhibitor and Sequestrant (if you took sugar as it is used traditionally in preserving you could also add “Descecant” to the list as it works for both hams and Twinkies).   


Antioxidant

Label from store bought dehydrated pineapple chunks: Pineapple, sulfur dioxide (antioxidant), sugar (desecant) and Citric Acid (enzyme inhibitor).



 

Sulfur fun fact: “In an overcooked hard-boiled egg, the yolk will have turned a gray-green color.  That’s caused by a chemical reaction between the traces of iron in the yolk and the traces of sulfur in the white. The longer they are heated together, the greener the yolk will get” (Parsons, 124).




homemade vs storebought pineapple

Homemade dehydrated pineapple on the left (no preservatives) and store bought

on the right (see label in above photo).

 


The sulfur, especially in its sulfur dioxide configuration, shows by its name that it has a powerful role to play for abating oxygen—one of the biggest things that can be done to preserve food.  If you have ever lived in the rustbelt where roads are carpet bombed with salt, then you know about oxidation decomposing a vehicle composed of ferrous metals.  The same inescapable grip of the Second Law of Thermodynamics is also true for food, but the process is much faster. 

 

One thing is inevitable, however: all foods will eventually spoil, rot, decompose, disintegrate, crumble, putrefy, turn rancid, or become just plain yucky.  It’s Nature’s law, for dust they art and unto dust shalt they return.  Proteins will turn soft, squishy, putrid, and green: carbohydrates will ferment and sour; fats will turn rancid (Wolke, 2005, p. 373).

 

Oxygen is everywhere; in fact it is the third most abundant element in the universe, and it is always looking to hook up with other elements or molecules.  The chemical name for what happens to rusty cars or brown apples is oxidization (only the process with apples is accelerated by active enzymes). 

 

Oxidization = Decomposition

 

As oxygen encounters other elements and molecules it looks to satisfy its need for another electron.  When the oxygen atom pries that electron free from another substance, the victim is said to have been “oxidized” which leads to further decomposition.   In food this leads to decay as it does in your body as well (elements and compounds that are exceptionally bent on this snatchery are called “free radicals” when they are in your body).

 

What defense is there against these oxidizing agents?  Antioxidants of course, and sulfur is a natural one.  Sulfur gladly gives up an electron (or two electrons in the case of sulfur dioxide) so that the food it comes into contact with will have a buffer against further oxidization.  “An antioxidant is an atom or molecule that can neutralize a free radical by giving it the electron it wants before it steals one from something vital.  Among the antioxidants we obtain from our foods are vitamins C and E, beta-carotene (which turns into Vitamin A in the body)” (Wolke, 2002, p. 18).  Sulfur is a natural way to prevent oxidization and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) and BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) are artificial antioxidants that are derived from petroleum.  All three fall under GRAS (Generally Regarded As Safe) status by your USDA.

 

We are all subject to the Second Law of Thermodynamics and everything and everyone that is carbon based will decay.  However, in response to the question about why sulfur is used in dehydrated food, my initial answer was (partially) correct.  Sulfur is used to preserve color in dehydrated fruit—this is clearly attributed to its antioxidant function.  Yet, sulfur also acts as an antimicrobial to preserve foods by keeping bad bacteria at bay in all manner of foods from wine to molasses. 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Works Cited:

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 239). Toronto: Robert Rose.

Parsons, R. (2001). How to read a french fry. (p. 124). Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company.

Wolke, R. (2002). What Einstein told his cook 1: kitchen science explained. (p. 18). New York: W. W. Norton & Company.

Wolke, R. (2005). What Einstein told his cook 2: Further adventures in kitchen science. (p. 375). New York: W. W. Norton & Company.

 

 

Photo Credits:

Oxygen: Periodic Table of elements taken from the public domain: http://www.wpclipart.com/education/supplies/periodic_table_of_the_elements.png.html

Antioxidant: Photo by Pantry Paratus

Homemade vs storebought pineapple: Photo by Pantry Paratus

 

 

Further Reading:

Great article on the difference between sulfites and sulfates (as pertaining to the potential health hazard sulfites can pose to asthmatics). http://www.mineralresourcesint.com/docs/quality/Sulfites%20vs.Sulfate.pdf

 

Chemistry 101 how chemicals get those suffixes: http://science.widener.edu/svb/pset/nomen_b.html

 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.



www.HyperSmash.com

Sulfur, Part I

Sulfur, Part I

 

A short discussion on a food preservative

 

 

I was giving a class on dehydrators at the Sustainable Preparedness Expo in Spokane last fall when during the Q & A time, the topic turned to the use of sulfur for fruit.  To an observer, it would appear that there was a divide in the group of people who dehydrate into those who use sulfur and those who would never use sulfur at all—what is sulfur or sulfur dioxide?  What does it do for my dehydrated food? 

 

 

 

 

If you squint really hard, you can almost see us in this video

 

 

When I give a class, I always do my best to present the information on dehydrating, why you would do it, and how it works.  Inevitably, the topic wanders into best practices for storage methods.  By design I put the sales pitch for the Excalibur dehydrator dead last because I want to make sure that people have their questions answered about what the process is and how it works before we start talking about the best product for the money.  I answered the question about sulfur that day by saying that I knew that it was there to preserve the color—and that was the extent of my knowledge on that.  But, how does it do that?  Does it have any other purpose?  Are there any downsides to sulfur?

 

I found a mention of the 16th element on the periodic table of elements in a homesteading book, “The sick room in all cases and preferably every room in the house, in case of small pox, diphtheria, typhoid and other virulent diseases, should be thoroughly disinfected by fumigation.  This may be accomplished by formaldehyde gas or by the fumes of burning sulphur” (Padgett, p. 104).  Before we discuss whether or not burnt sulphur smoke will cleanse anything, let us clear the air on the spelling, is it “sulphur” or “sulfur?”  It depends on who you ask, the British spelling (i.e. centre, colour, favour, fibre, etc.) is the former and the American spelling (i.e. center, color, favor, fiber, etc.) is the later—so I will use the American spelling since most of my sources used that variant.


Sulfur

 

Sulfur, like most chemical elements is a yellowish-solid at room temperature, which is likely a good thing because it has much to do with all kinds of finished goods from dehydrated food to high fructose corn syrup and other “products and processes that include fabric dye, ink, water purification, wood preservation, and weed killers” (Ettlinger, p. 34).  Other than its more industrious applications, sulfur is also used as an antimicrobial food preservative.  “If everyone grew and cooked their own food, and everything we ate could be guaranteed fresh and safe, there would be no need for food additives” (Joachim & Schloss, p. 247). 

 

Your alternative to eating foods containing preservatives is to visit the farmers’ market every day for fresh meat and produce.  Also make your own cream, preserves, pickles, cheese, wine, potato chips, cereals, and olive oil, being sure to consume them before they go bad. 

And welcome to the eighteenth century (Wolke, p. 375)

 

Chemistry Set


To that end, man has chiefly sought out to live better through chemistry with food additives.  Lest the discussion slide down directly into a big corporate bashing session, people have been using salt, smoke, oil, fermentation and sugar to preserve food for millennia (Joachim & Schloss, p. 247).  Whenever I present on dehydrating at an expo, I am covering a two pronged approach to denying bad bacteria (or any living thing) the ability to decompose your stored food: removing water and removing oxygen (further bonus points go to controlling temperature, excluding vermin and eliminating light).  Since consumers do not buy very many food products that are vacuum sealed in opaque packages with oxygen absorbers (food marketing agencies say that we eat with our eyes), we have to ingest a myriad of chemicals to postpone the decomposition of our food.  “Enter preservatives: chemicals added to prepared foods to extend their shelf lives—and the lives of us who eat them” (Wolke, p. 374).  Sulfur happens to be a natural variety of such a preservative.

 

Antimicrobial


Here is a chart of some preservatives used in food (sulfur is listed under antimicrobial and antioxidant as sulfites):

 

Food_Preservatives

 


So is sulfur bad for you?  Not at all.  “As the remarkable properties of vitamins have revealed themselves to investigators, so too have those of the various minerals in our food and water.  The seven macrominerals—calcium, chloride, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium and sulfur—now share the spotlight with a longer list of trace minerals” (Fallon & Enig, p. 40).”  Actually Sally Fallon Morell talks a lot about sulfur-containing proteins as assisting in a host of cellular functions to include maintaining the cellular wall and protecting the body from infection, blocking harmful effects of radiation and pollution as well as slowing down the aging process (pp. 43, & 436).  As you see, sulfur can not only slow down the aging process of food, but of you as well! 

 

Sulfur Dioxide

(No, that is not Chaya)


Sulfur indeed is an interesting mineral “known biblically as brimstone, is perfectly odorless, but many of its compounds are evil smelling.  Sulfur dioxide is the smell of burning sulfur” (Wolke, p. 28).  But how does sulfur work to do all of this?  What does sulfur have to do with dehydrated food?  We will get into that in Part II in the next blog.  I will give you a hint, it has to do with the third most abundant element in our universe and ever present in living things (H2O).


Oxygen

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Works Cited:

Ettlinger, S. (2007). Twinkie, deconstructed, my journey to discover how the ingredients found in processed foods are grown, mined (yes, mined), and manipulated into what America eats. (First printing, March 2007 ed., Vol. 1). London: Hudson st Pr.

Fallon, S., & Enig, M. (2001). Nourishing traditions. (p. 40). Washington DC: Newtrends.

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 239). Toronto: Robert Rose.

Padgett, C. (2001). Keeping hearth & home in old Ohio. (p. 109). Birmingham: Menasha Ridge Press.

Wolke, R. (2005). What Einstein told his cook 2: Further adventures in kitchen science. (p. 375). New York: W. W. Norton & Company.

 

Photo Credits:

Sulfur: Periodic Table of elements taken from the public domain: http://www.wpclipart.com/education/supplies/periodic_table_of_the_elements.png.html

Sulfur Dioxide: photo credit: <a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/lipson/524489441/”>joe.lipson</a> via <a href=”http://photopin.com”>photopin</a> <a href=”http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/2.0/”>cc</a>

Chemistry Equipment photo credit: <a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/fdctsevilla/4623395359/”>El Bibliomata</a> via <a href=”http://photopin.com”>photopin</a> <a href=”http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/”>cc</a>

Antimicrobial collage:

photo credit: <a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/nathanreading/6795865300/”>Nathan Reading</a> via <a href=”http://photopin.com”>photopin</a> <a href=”http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/”>cc</a>

photo credit: <a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/adonofrio/4478011500/”>adonofrio</a> via <a href=”http://photopin.com”>photopin</a> <a href=”http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/”>cc</a>

photo credit: <a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/66126733@N04/6287939381/”>Rising Damp (busy, silent)</a> via <a href=”http://photopin.com”>photopin</a> <a href=”http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/”>cc</a>

Oxygen: Periodic Table of elements taken from the public domain: http://www.wpclipart.com/education/supplies/periodic_table_of_the_elements.png.html

 

 

 

Further Reading:

CDC article on “Sulphur Mustard” otherwise known as that horrendous substance, “Mustard Gas.”  http://emergency.cdc.gov/agent/sulfurmustard/ This correctly outlawed chemical warfare toxin comes from the mustard’s seed: 

A member of the brassica family, related to broccoli and cabbage, mustard is valued for its seed, which contains a compound called sinigrin.  During grinding, enzymatic action liberates the pungent principle from the sugar molecule to which it is attached.  Sulphur [sic] compounds and oils are also released.  These compounds have a penetrating odor and an irritating effect on the skin and mucous membranes.   (Morell, Enig, p. 104). 

Sulfur compounds are also what accelerate both the decomposition of fish flesh making it smell putrid or the pleasant aromas from garlic or onions.  “Much of the aromatics in roasted coffee beans come from mercaptans, which are sulfur compounds” (Joachim & Schloss, p. 239).

 

BHA cause for concern; an article citing research suggesting a link to cancer: http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/roc/twelfth/profiles/ButylatedHydroxyanisole.pdf

 

Great article from Medopedia.com on “Petroleum, it’s what’s for breakfast” http://www.medpedia.com/news_analysis/98-Small-Bites/entries/79619-Petroleum-Itrsquos-Whatrsquos-For-Breakfast

 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.



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Indian Grocery: Making Whole Food Indian Recipe Subsitutions

The Indian Grocery Store

How to Make Indian Recipe Substitutions (& still have it taste like Indian food)

 Indian Grocery

 

My love for travel and my love for food are perfectly paired on a quiet afternoon when I can indulge myself with a trip to a local ethnic food market.  I have done this ever since I have had a driver’s license, and I was traveling overseas by myself even before that.  The quest for that aroma or that tea flavor draws me through ethnic food markets almost like the cartoonish waft that would carry a Loony Toons character to the pie on the windowsill, but the prize to me is an instant transport to a memory.  Sometimes, it isn’t to a former moment in history, but instead a new skill, a new food, a new fact I learn along the way. 

 

Take the Indian Food Market, for instance.  I have never gone to India, though I have many wonderful memories of sharing the rich homemade foods in a friend’s home; and I hold some memories of Indian foods in places like Africa.  Most often, I find that the reward for me in Indian food stores is the great deal on bulk ingredients (especially on things like rice, nuts, oils, and legumes), or discovering a new cookie, or learning how to open a cardamom seed pod by the retail clerk behind the counter.

 

Apples at the Indian Grocery

 

Some cooks shy away from Indian recipes because so many books are written in the metric system, something that make many of us Americans feel incompetent (speaking for myself here).  Others shy away because the ingredients list alone contains ingredient names that seem so exotic and out-of-reach.  Believe it or not, many of those are things that you already have on your shelf…a chickpea by any other name tastes just as sweet, I promise. 

 

Indian Food is generally whole food (notwithstanding the trend towards the boxed convenience versions).  Fermentation, whole grains, and rich spices play the leading roles in every dish.  Let’s take a look at the flours you might find in your recipes and a few suggestions for using the whole ingredients you have on hand:

 

Atta Flour or Chapati Flour

Chapati is a roasted bread that does not have a leavener in it traditionally.  It is the dough resting time and heat of the griddle slathered in ghee that give it a slight rise.  Recipes that call for either Atta Flour or Chapati flour will require a low gluten flour to allow it that natural rise.  If using the wheat berries you have on hand, use soft white.  I suggest using your sifter and then saving that beautiful germ for tomorrow’s breakfast yogurt. 

 

Ladu Flour

Coursely grind soft white, spelt flour, or chickpeas—or any combination of these– as this is typically used for an item similar to a doughnut, called a “Ladu” or “Ladoo”.  You will want a wheat flavor that pairs well with the sweetness of ghee and sugar. 

 

Halim or Lapsi

Use your hand crank grain mill to coarsely grind any grain you prefer, preferably hard red or hard white wheat.  This is going to be a hearty base for stews and pilafs.  Lapsi is generally the term for a cracked wheat and sometimes comes finer for dishes like a salad (think Tabbouli). 

 

Semolina

You might recognize that word from the store-bought pasta.  Semolina is sifted durum wheat, and is extremely starchy and usually bland in flavor.  I personally do not believe in sifting flour unless I am using the sifted portions in other dishes so that we still get the full nutritional balance as God intended. Indian foods that call for Semolina might be either sweet or savory, and so you might need to make a judgment here as to which grains would best suit the dish.  Millet, rice, and spelt are options.  Chickpea is always a wonderful substitution for anything with a sweeter flavor and holds to the true authenticity of Indian cuisine.   However, chickpea will not be starchy enough for many things, so you will want to use it as only part of the flour, mixing it with either durum or hard white. 

 

Sevian

This is not a flour.  It is a noodle as thin as vermicelli, very difficult for the home cook to achieve even with the best of pasta makers.  That means that you will have to make a judgment call here; either make your homemade noodle work and know that it is not quite authentic, or take a chance that you will feel sluggish in the morning from eating a processed noodle.  For me, I am fully aware that my version of Indian cooking is not authentic, but delicious just the same, and nourishing.  If you make your own noodles, use either durum or soft white for sevian, and strive to make them as thin as possible. 

 

Maida or Maitha Flour

Read: Bleached, Enriched, All Purpose.  So for all of you whole-foods cooks reading this, you are not new to this frustration.  This is often used in pastry or “quick bread” style of cooking, so in those cases definitely use soft white flour (perhaps with some chickpea thrown in for good measure).  When flatbreads call for this, you have more options.  Consider spelt or hard white along with the soft white or chickpea flours you might be using.

 

 

Store Shelf

LEGUMES

 

Chickpea = Gram = Chana = Patani = Bengal Gram = Maghaj = Garbanzo Bean Flour

Did you catch all that?  The names may be derived either from the brand of chickpea or a regionally preferred name for the same thing.  No matter, it is deliciously sweet but low in gluten.  You will want to keep it around 25-35% of the flour if you need a flour with a higher gluten.  It is absolutely addictive in a myriad of Indian cookies and desserts.  It is perfect for a thickening agent and for batter (we use this for non-Indian dishes, too).  You can use this to thicken a too-spicy curry to soften the final bite, to make dumplings, snacks, breads, desserts, or breakfast.  Get really creative with this ingredient!

 

Not all of the above names are the same in texture or style.  For instance, the Maghaj is coarsely ground.  Now, it can start to get confusing, because chickpea is such an extremely common flour that each flour blend has its own name:

Dokla—chickpea with rice flour

Ondhwa—chickpea, rice, and black lentil

Dakor Gota– chickpea and wheat flour, usually blended with spices to make fritters

Bajri—chickpea and millet

Raji—chickpea and red millet

 

Matha Flour

Do not confuse this with Maitha flour, mentioned above.  This is a legume (moth dal) which are apparently similar to mung beans.  If you know of any easy substitutions we can readily make in a well-stocked pantry, please leave a comment below and we will add it to the list!

 

Moong Flour

This is also made from mung beans, but have a different (finer) texture because they are skinless and have been split.

 

Other Flours

Mutter Besan, not Besan (which is chickpea), is from yellow split peas.  Urad is from skinless black lentils, and Rajagro is really Amaranth.  Many home cooks using bulk ingredients can easily substitute the lentils and split peas on hand.  Your colors, textures, and flavors may vary—but the nutrition and wholesomeness of the food will nourish your family.  You will find that you can make very affordable and exotic dishes to wow your family and friends. 

 

Last Thought

A tip about the stores: the clerks are usually very helpful.  I visited my local Indian store weekly and the clerk waited for me and knew me by name—because I routinely asked him to explain to me how to cook something I have never made before.  He did not hide his pleasure as he walked me through the store, discussing his passion for the food of his culture.   I highly recommend you do the same.  The labels are generally written in English along with their languages, so do not worry that the list of various flours or ingredients is long—you can often discover these things just by reading the package! 

 

Above all, this is a wonderful time to pull out your grain mill and experiment with various grains and legumes you already have in your cupboard, to discover all of the culinary potential these whole foods possess. There is more to do with split peas than soup, more to do with chickpeas than hummus.   

 

Do you want to share your favorite ethnic food store bargain or give us a tip on how to make ethnic recipe substitutions? Please leave a comment below.

 

 


 

Further Reading:

Bladholm, L. (2000). The indian grocery store demystified. Los Angeles: Renaissance.

Signh, R. (1994). The wonderful world of Indian cookery. Gretna: Pelican Publishing Company.

 


 

Photos:

Awami Markaz, a Texas Indian Food store found: http://www.buysellitems.com/store.php?s=awamimarkaz&p=191

 

Svadilfari via photopin cc

emma_brown via photopin cc

 

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Chocolate in America, Part III

Chocolate, Part III

 

Chocolate in America

 

While the East and Far East had supplied Europe with exotic spices and delicacies for millennia before the age of exploration, it was to be the Americas to grace the world with the gift of chocolate. “Curiously, this public airing of ideas in chocolate houses, so typical of the English Enlightenment, was never transferred to the North American Colonies.  The leisured classes in Virginia took their chocolate at home” (Bardi, & Pietersen, p. 26).  It was destined that Americans would like love chocolate, but not that they would mix it with politics—well, at least not directly.

 

Whether it was part of war rations, diplomatic efforts or even provisions for space travel, chocolate is an American essential that one could even call patriotic! 


Even before they declared their independence from England, the American colonists were making chocolate.  Chocolate was considered a staple, and it was made in America. The colonists imported only the raw materials, cocoa beans, from the West Indies. . . . After the Townshend Acts of 1767 levied taxes on shipments of tea, drinking chocolate became patriotic. (National Confectioners Association [NCA] Chocolate Council, para. 1&2)

 

Chocolate in America


The history of chocolate in America precedes the term “America” itself; the nation was still loose colonies, not all of which were English either.  Since the Spanish were the first ones to taste of the sublime treat as part of their conquests, they would also be the first ones to import it into America. 

The oldest reference to chocolate in North America is from a Spanish ship which arrived in St. Augustine, Florida, with crates of chocolate in 1641. By 1670, European chocolate was being sold in public houses in Boston. By 1682, cocoa was being exported from Jamaica to Boston to supply the first chocolate makers in the American colonies.  Drinking chocolate was affordable to all classes of people in North America and was available in most coffee houses (Snyder, para. 3).


 Hot Chocolate


Even before the beginning, chocolate in America was here to stay.  While the above quote uses the term, “classes,” this term is not one from our shores.  Chocolate was made affordable to everyone by something generations of Americans had perfected, the industrial process.  It was Dr. James Baker and an Irish immigrant named John Hannon who opened America’s first chocolate factory in 1765 in Massachusetts (NCA Chocolate Council, para. 1).  The oldest running factory in the United States today that is still in operation producing chocolate from 1852 is of course, Ghirardelli.  The history of the company is summed up nicely on their website:


During the California Gold rush in the mid-1800s, Domingo Ghirardelli shrewdly discovered that the exhausted miners in from the fields were starved for luxuries and needed something to spend their gold dust on. To capitalize on this opportunity, he stocked chocolate delicacies to ensure that they solicited his shop (Ghirardelli Chocolate Company, 2012).

 

Ghirardelli


However the biggest name in American chocolate known the world over is the ambitious son of Swiss Mennonite immigrants, Milton Snavely Hershey.  Hershey started off life with a less than intact home and a largely absent father.  After a failed apprenticeship with a printer, his mother directed him to an established Pennsylvanian confectioner.  It was during this apprenticeship that Hershey’s true talents became known.  Hershey would start several business ventures, some of which failed.  He finally succeeded in his next to last one—not as a chocolatier but in making caramels.  He discovered the use of milk and developed a process to make a superior caramel using milk instead of lesser quality ingredients. 

 

Hershey’s perseverance paid off.  He saw that his milk caramels were affordable and thus widely accepted; in his heart he knew that he could do the same with chocolate.  In 1893 he visited the Columbian Exposition in Chicago and saw in the “Machinery Hall” the cutting edge of industrial machinery for producing all kinds of things.  Among the vendors was the J.M. Lehmann Company of Dresden, Germany who was showcasing their new chocolate making machines.  Milton Hershey purchased a machine and shipped it to Lancaster, PA.  That is where he experimented with chocolate (mostly as coating) for his already successful caramel line (McMahon, p. 38). 


Click Here to watch how Hershey Chocolate is made

 

“To most Americans, the name Hershey is probably synonymous with chocolate, and some people might assume that the candy takes its name from the town of Hershey, Pennsylvania, rather than the other way around” (Teubner, p. 19).  It was there in Lancaster, PA that he discovered that he could indeed make the milk chocolate product more affordable by mass production and by running a well managed, people-centered company—even insisting on a one story floor plan for his new factory because of the ability to easily egress in case of a fire.  

 

Milton Hershey eventually sold his caramel company for $1,000,000 and set out to relocate his new enterprise of producing chocolate.  Since it was his Swiss ancestors who had successfully married chemistry, chocolate and milk, Hershey knew that he would need to be in a location with a plentiful milk supply and an adequate labor force.  It was his ambition to produce a smaller product line in sufficient quantity, lowering the per-unit cost as volume increased—thus making milk chocolate affordable.  While I am grateful for Mr. Hershey’s chocolate manufacturing prowess, the people who would live in the model town he was building would be grateful for his foresight and design implementations. 


“Hershey, the Chocolate Town,” the dimensions of which made Cadbury and Rowntree’s achievements pale into matchbox scale by comparison.  The several thousand employees would count on schools, libraries, churches, a hospital, a fire department, a park, a zoo, a golf course and other amenities.  Moreover, alongside the milk chocolate and cocoa factories there were 8000 [sic] acres (3237 hectares) of Hershey-owned dairy farms (Bardi, & Pietersen, p. 30).




 

European chocolate at the time was typically bolder in flavor because its flavor profile consisted of a stronger cocoa butter flavor due to the higher content.  However, Hershey was not a chemist and he found that what worked for carmels also worked for chocolate—milk chocolate that is.  The creamy milk replaced the fat content of the cocoa butter while adding a slightly sour complexion.  Since cocoa butter has a melting temperature similar to the temperature of the human hand, the new milk chocolate had a better solid composition. 

 

Even with a new factory, the more growth came to meet the demand for chocolate.  The price of sugar soared during WWI as the country rationed its European (beet) sugar supply.  Hershey eventually bought a Cuban (cane) sugar plantation only to have the bottom of the sugar market fall out after the war.  Still he persevered through, and even with the sugar market volatility and Prohibition turning beer companies into candy companies, Hershey realized that America was loyal to his brand of chocolate no matter what. 


Hershey Chocolate

 

It might have been the instability of Milton Hershey’s upbringing, but some sources say that it was Kitty Hershey’s idea (Milton’s wife who was barren); in either case Milton Hershey would go on to establish the Milton Hershey School “to provide the boys with a stable home life, a sound education, and a trade . . . . From its beginnings, the school was designed to provide a homelike environment for the boys.  They were grouped by age . . . [and] meals were served ‘family style.’” (McMahon, p. 116-117). 

 

In 1918, three years after the death of his wife, Milton Hershey placed the bulk of his fortune, $60 million worth of Hershey Chocolate Company stock, in trust for his school.  The School Trust was and still is managed by the Hershey Trust Company, which . . . . ensures the School’s continued ability to provide a full education and a secure, nurturing environment for all attending students.  Only income and dividends from the School Trust’s investments may be used for the benefit of the school.  During the 1920s, the school added an agricultural program to its curriculum.  Older boys lived in homes connected to farms where they raised turkeys, pigs, ducks and cows (McMahon, p. 117). 

 

The Hershey Chocolate Company would have other trouble with the depression, WWII, the restructuring of the company and eventually the death of Milton Hershey himself—the indelible mark of what chocolate would mean to America is certain to include a Hershey embossment.    


Hershey

 

The history of chocolate in America is indeed a sweet one.  With a big “thank you” going out to many entrepreneurs, chemists and adventurers throughout world hisotry who helped advance the discovery of chocolate. 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

Photo Credits:

Chocolate in America (World Map with US highlighted in green) by Cleavlander added to the Public Domain

Hot Chocolate Heart by Kevin Tuck and can be found at: http://www.rgbstock.com/photo/muJqBly/Hot+chocolate+heart

Ghirardelli (Factory) by Ghirardelli Chocolate Company taken from http://www.ghirardelli.com/about-ghirardelli

Hershey Chocolate by Hershey Chocolate Company taken from https://www.thehersheycompany.com/contact-us.aspx

Hershey (Hershey-Great-Americans-Series) by USPS taken from http://www.beyondtheperf.com/sites/default/files/slideshow/images/Hershey-Great-Americans-Series.jpg

 

Works Cited:

Bardi. , & Pietersen, (2006). The golden book of chocolate. (p. 26). Florence: McRae Books.

Ghirardelli Chocolate Company and Parrot. (2012). About ghirardelli. Retrieved from http://www.ghirardelli.com/about-ghirardelli

McMahon Jr., J. (1998). Built on chocolate: The story of the hershey chocolate company. (p. 38). Los Angeles: General Publishing Group.

Snyder, R. (2010, August). Chocolate as america. Retrieved from http://blog.constitutioncenter.org/2011/08/chocolate-as-america/

Teubner, C. (1997). The chocolate bible. (p. 10). New York: Penguin Studio.

The National Confectioners Association Chocolate Council. (2010, December 23). The story of chocolate, Americans.. Retrieved from http://www.thestoryofchocolate.com 


 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

The History of Chocolate

Chocolate, Part I

 

The History of Chocolate from Guatemala to Geneva

 

When I used to travel back and forth across the ocean into hostile places in the world, I thought that if I were ever captured that the enemy could try to tempt me with women, money or power and I would not succumb; however Peanut M&M’s® are a whole other level of appeal.  It seems that the enchanting power of chocolate goes far beyond just what organic chemistry can tell us.

 

The best part of a chocolate chip cookie is—of course—the chocolate which is loved the world over.  I cannot remember how old I was when I realized that Theobroma cacao plants do not grow anywhere near Switzerland, so how did the Swiss Miss® get to be so associated with this imported tropical plant product?  

 

For centuries the Old World knew nothing of cacao bushes and trees, whose broad crowns swayed beneath the protective canopy of taller trees.  Cacao bushes grew in the primeval forest, producing blossom, leaf, and fruit simultaneously.  The eighteenth-century Swedish naturalist Carolus Linnaeus named this evergreen tree of Paradise Theobroma, meaning “food of the gods.”  In legends handed down over thousands of years the native peoples of Central and South America described how the gods alone were worthy of enjoying its fruits (Teubner, 1997).

 

Cacao Fruits


This food is surrounded by intrigue! “The Latin definition [Theobroma cacao] was provided in 1753 by the great Swedish scientist Linnaeus, himself a chocolate-lover.  The binomial system he invented for the classification of all living things replaced unwieldy descriptive Latin sentences” (Bardi & Pietersen, 2006).  While Linnaeus may have been the first to scientifically name the plant, he was not the first to discover it—not even close.  The distinct honor of giving the world the gift of chocolate is believed to be first attributed to the Olmec peoples of modern day Mexico (Bardi & Pietersen, 2006) likely centuries before the Spanish Conquistadors arrived.  Just as Christianity was taking root in Europe, the cacao bean was traded in the markets of Mayan princes as both currency and food (Teubner, 1997). 

 

Since most of Europe was looking towards the East (often the Far East) for spices and exotic delicacies, the wonder of chocolate was something original to the New World in the West.  The 30-40 seeds in the cacao pod will not yield quite as fine of a product until the fruit has been allowed to rot and ferment for about five to ten days.  The beans were then washed in water and rubbed clean before placing them in the sun to roast to fully dry them and, in the absence of sorbic acid, to prevent mold from forming on these rich beans.  This fermentation, cleansing and roasting enhanced the flavor to a milder and tamer version of the raw product.    


Chocolate

 

The next step according to tradition and Archeological evidence seems to point to the grinding of the beans into a powder, and then the consumption of the treat in liquefied drink form.  The elite crust of the New World would often employ slaves to shake the cold water and cacao xocolatl (“xoco” means bitter, and “atl” means water) mixture until it became frothy by using special tools designed for making the drink.  “Since cacao beans are rich in fat [~55%], simply to mix the ground cacao with water would soon have lead to separation, with the cacao gradually settling in a unpleasant sludgy sediment at the bottom of the cup (Bardi & Pietersen, 2006).”

 

Hot Chocolate


From there it was up to the imagination and purchasing power of the connoisseur of how the drink would be flavored.  According to an account by Bernial Diaz del Castillo the Montezuma nobles and warriors were known to drink the xocoatl several times a day from gold flasks.  They were known to spice the drink with native vanilla, wild honey, pita juice or even chilis.  It was the Spanish who took advantage of their international trade and started drinking it hot mixed with sugar (Bardi & Pietersen, 2006).  This was certainly the first revision of modern day hot chocolate (genius!). 

 

From there the history of chocolate recipes takes a religious, political and state secret bend. 

 

The Spaniards, for whom drunkenness was a sin, developed a liking for this new drink.  Since the Church recognized it as a beverage rather than a food, it could be consumed even during periods of fasting. . . . Still the drink continued to be made with water.  The countries in which the cacao bush was indigenous all belonged to the Spanish and Portuguese crown, and so for roughly a century cocoa remained a Spanish drink and a secret (Teubner, 1997).

 

Eventually Italian explorers discovered the beans that the Spanish and Portuguese were not spilling and trade routes developed from Italy north through the Alps (evidently how Swiss Miss® got in on the secret).  Britain would capture Jamaica from the Spanish to start their cacao trade venture (Teubner, 1997).  The delight of chocolate was now in Europe through trade and royal marriages, but would still stay within the hands of the elite largely because the method to produce chocolate had not changed very much and was labor-intensive.  Later, the Brits mechanized the process with the first chocolate factory by Fry and Sons of Bristol; the production was further developed by the French who used hydraulics.  Not to be outdone, the Prince of Lippe opened eight factories in Munich alone (Bardi & Pietersen, 2006).  The Prince of Lippe had served as an officer with the Portuguese military and simply could not abide without chocolate.




 

The industrialization of the production process meant that the supply had to be sufficient and reliable.  Once the secret only of the Spanish and Portuguese crowns, the other colonial powers were applying known agricultural techniques to produce the cacao cheaper and in higher quantity to meet the demand.  Chocolate was now international and it had the power to shape trade and to make fortunes.  All of this power comes with a large responsibility and the three biggest purveyors of this sublime dessert were not without a moral compass. 

 

By curious coincidence the Frys [who supplied the British Navy with chocolate], the Cadburys [who personally supplied chocolate to the Queen] and the prominent Rowntree family near York were all Quakers who maintained a social conscience even as their fortunes accrued.  They built housing and communal facilities such as libraries for their workers, and boycotted cacao from colonial plantations in which conditions of near slavery prevailed.  By the same token, they also avoided industrial malpractice (Bardi & Pietersen, 2006).


 

Frontier Brand Organic Hot CocoaAside: Nowadays it is up to the consumer to vote with their wallet on where and how chocolate is produced.  Products like Frontier Brand Organic Hot Cocoa are produced in countries that pay workers fairly and do not resort to child labor or indentured servitude to artificially hold prices down. 

 



The biggest advance in chocolate recipes was by far the development of chemistry.  Usually, we do not think of chemistry as being a part of the kitchen milieu, but recall that something as routine as baking a loaf of bread is indeed a controlled chemistry experiment.  Between the science of chemistry, ingenuity, and necessity, the practice developed to mix the fruit of Theobromma cacao and the staple of the Alps, the liquid of life—milk.  “In 1867 a Swiss chemist by the name of Henri Nestlé discovered a method of making powdered milk by evaporation.  This was fully a pivotal event. . . . The outcome was the world’s first milk chocolate bar (Bardi & Pietersen, 2006).”  Up until now, the density of the chocolate brick was dependent upon the amount of cocoa butter in the product.  The credit for bringing chocolate from a gritty crumbly mass to a silky substance which could be poured (instead of beaten) into a mold and then to candy bar form goes to the Swiss who made the names Lindt, Nestlé and Toblerone household words.    


Chocolate Bar

 

In the next blog (Part 2 of 3), we will discuss how chocolate is made and in Part 3 of 3 we talk about chocolate in America!

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Photo Credits:

Cacao Pods (Cocoa Fruits) by Michael & Christa Richert and can be found at: http://www.rgbstock.com/photo/mDJMTie/cocoa+fruits

Chocolate (Cacao just add milk) by A K Rehse and can be found at: http://www.rgbstock.com/photo/mfmoQNm/cacao-just+add+milk

Hot Chocolate Heart by Kevin Tuck and can be found at: http://www.rgbstock.com/photo/muJqBly/Hot+chocolate+heart

Frontier Organic Hot Cocoa used with permission from Frontier

Chocolate Bar by Sanja Gjenero can be found at: http://www.rgbstock.com/photo/mgylB4G/chocolate

 

Works Cited:

Teubner, C. (1997). The chocolate bible. (p. 6). New York: Penguin Studio.

Bardi. , & Pietersen, (2006). The golden book of chocolate. (p. 13). Florence: McRae Books.

Ibid, p. 18.

Teubner, C. (1997). The chocolate bible. (p. 7). New York: Penguin Studio.

Bardi. , & Pietersen, (2006). The golden book of chocolate. (p. 20-21). Florence: McRae Books.

Ibid, p. 23.

Teubner, C. (1997). The chocolate bible. (p. 10). New York: Penguin Studio.

Ibid, p. 10-11.

Bardi. , & Pietersen, (2006). The golden book of chocolate. (p. 25-26). Florence: McRae Books.

Ibid, p. 27. 

Ibid, p. 29.


Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

Pantry Paratus Radio, Episode 022: Interview with Millie, from Real Food for Less Money Part II

Pantry Paratus Radio Banner

 

Pantry Paratus Radio, Episode 022

 

Interview with Millie, from Real Food for Less Money Part II

 

We are back with Part 2 of 2 and if you liked the first half you will love the second half.  Turns out that Millie and I are nearly neighbors, why she lives just “right down the road” in Wyoming, and although I may not get to chat with this neighbor as much as I would like, I loved my conversation with her today.  Whether it is menu planning with unassuming beans or not blowing your holiday food budget, everyone can get something out of this podcast and we are so pleased to have Millie back with us.  Come join us, and share your thoughts about it in the comments section below.


Real Food For Less Money


Right Click Here to Download This Episode



Listen to internet radio with Preparedness Radio Network on Blog Talk Radio


 

We talk about:

 

 

 

-Preparing, the why

 

 

 

-Why store food?  “Pantry Insurance”

 

 

 

-FIFO First In, First Out: menu planning from what you have

 

 

 

-Food storage and picky palates “food fatigue”

 

 

 

-Stretchy beans

 

 

 

Design a Dish, making a meal from what you have on hand.  Stop throwing food away, use those leftovers and answer the question, what is for dinner?

 

 

 

-“Using formulas [from the ebook] instead of just recipes and reusing your little leftover bits, you can actually almost eat a meal or may be even two meals a week for free just by not throwing things away any longer.”

 

 

 

-Take those single serving leftovers in the freezer and have a family smorgasbord night.

 

 

 

-Start a “freezer bucket,” the ultimate soup starter

 

 

 

-Leaning those long lost kitchen skills

 

 

 

-Getting kids involved in the kitchen

 

 

 

-The magical “doubling food bill” during the holidays

 

 

 

-Fried food does not have to mean unhealthy

 

 

 

-What can we do this week to change our diet more to a real food diet, buying oatmeal instead of cold cereal, or buy real butter instead of margarine

 

 

 

-Start where you are!

 

 

 

-Millie’s Thrifty Food Plan Experience (see link below to get the free eBook) on dumping the standard American diet for a real food diet

 

 

 

-Chaya retells her experience working with people with disabilities and taking them to the local food bank.  Since a high percentage of them were diabetic, they could not eat most traditional “shelf stable” food because it is typically highly processed and starchy.

 

 

 

-Grain mill for a gluten free diet, really?     

 

 

 

-Millie’s experience with the GAPS diet while working for herself, plus a full-time job and being an involved Mom

 

 

 

-GAPS diet, the system “reset”

 

 

 

-Caroline from MyGutsy.com a great inspiration for the GAPS diet

 

 

 

-There is so much more good information to help find a helpful direction to make meaningful dietary changes in your life

 

 

 

-It would not even be possible to recreate Dr. Weston A. Price’s research today because of the proliferation of the modern diet

 

 

 

-“Real food does not have to be a one size fits all proposition.”

 

 

 

-When you work backwards from a standard American diet, you have to do a lot of gut healing

 

 

 

-The strange contemporary phenomenon of the regression towards the dark ages in America of food and heritage

 

 

 

-No longer a pyramid, it is now a plate . . .

 

 

 

-Seasonal eating

 

 

 

-WIC recommends low fat milk for children past the age of two years old

 

 

 

-The long goodbye . . .

 

 

 

-What is Millie’s favorite dish on the second day?

 

 

 

-wrap up

 

 

 

Links:

 

RealFoodForLessMoney.com

 

Meet Chef Nancy

 

Design a Dish an ebook from Millie

 

13 Week Menu Planner with Millie from Real Food For Less Money (learn the benefit of “stretchy beans”)

 

Get Millie’s free eBook on Thrifty Food Plan Experience when you sign up for her mailing list!

 

Link that Millie recommends (gluten free): DivineHealthFromTheInsideOut.com

 

GAPS diet with Caroline from MyGutsy.com

 

Podcast with Caroline from MyGutsy.com

 

Weston A. Price Foundation

 

WIC document (.pdf) that cites low fat milk for children over two years old

 

 

 

Proviso:

 

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical or legal advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

 



California Residents Can Now Buy Berkeys!

California Update

Welcome to Pantry Paratus!

We are so excited for you.  We have spoken to many California residents who wanted a way to purchase this time-tested method for crystal-clear drinking water.  Now you can finally buy a unit for yourself.


Berkey Water Purification

The Background

The Berkey Water Purification Units are gravity-fed, free standing units that are extremely versatile for a wide variety of situations.  These are the water systems taken in to disaster areas by the Red Cross and other emergency personnel.  In spite of their very long history of consistent and pure water, California had placed new lead-free regulations that Berkey surpassed.  However, due to the ambiguous nature of the regulations and the unreasonable expense of repeated testing, the company that produces Berkey (New Mlilenium Concepts) withdrew from California and dealers were not permitted to ship to California addresses. 

The Good News

California has clarified their previous regulations and it is in no uncertain terms that the Berkey Purification Units exceed all requirements.  You can now buy Berkeys!

 

A Special Offer

1) Purchase a stainless steel Berkey Model (Imperial, Royal, Big, or Travel Berkey).

2) Place a Sport Berkey in your Shopping Cart (necessary for coupon code to read as “valid”).

3) Use Coupon Code: CA-WATER

Sport Berkey

Get a free Sport Berkey, a $25.50 value with the purchase of a Berkey System!

 

Interested in learning more?

When it tastes like the pool: Chlorine in Water

Water Purification: Berkey Q & A

 

California Update

Baking Powder, the Expanded History Part 1

Baking Powder

 

What is Baking Powder? How do we get it and what does it really do?

 

 

Baking Powder has always been a rather mysterious ingredient to me.  Baking is a controlled chemistry experiment in your home.  Like Rachel Ray, I am not a great baker because I rarely measure things so precisely (I leave that department to my wife, Chaya).  While the “little of this, little of that” method works great for sauces or stir fries, it is wildly unpredictable for something as precise as baking where ingredients are weighed by the pros not measured by volume. 

 

We happen to have three very dedicated fans of Pooh Bear in our house, and I cannot tell you how many times we have read the story, “Honey of a Cake” to them.  In case you are not as conversant in the adventures of the Hundred Acre Woods I will bring you up to speed on the story, Rabbit wanted to bake a cake and Pooh, Tigger and Piglet wanted to “help.”  Rabbit gives the advice that every baker would give a novice: the recipe is to be followed exactly or else you run the risk of ruining it.  As you may have guessed, this controlled chemistry experiment in Rabbit’s kitchen goes awry when Rabbit turns his back after dispensing the bit of knowledge to the group that the baking powder helps the cake to rise and become bigger.  Well, if a little cake is good then more cake must be better, right?  The story ends with a huge mess that the foursome has to eat their way out of, but it shows the power of this unassuming chemical leavener. 

 

For millennia bakers knew of two ways to leaven (or create a rise in) a baked product: yeast or elbow grease.  Yeast is the natural way of getting a rise in a baked product as this single-cell fungus digests the sugar it releases carbon dioxide (see Chaya’s great blog on yeast).  The trouble with yeast is that it takes awhile to work (after you proof it) and when you are in the mood for cake you probably do not want to wait that long.  Alternatively you could have a batter with a high egg content and vigorously whip it to introduce air bubbles into the batter.


 

 


The use of a chemical leavener seems to be uniquely attributed to the (perhaps accidental) success of early American bakers.  America’s first cookbook written by Amelia Simmons titled, American Cookery (you can preview it here from the LoC) is the earliest written source known to call for a substance known as “pearlash.”  Pearlash (Potassium Carbonate) is the refined residue that is reclaimed from wood ashes (potash) which was known to be used to make lye for soap, but the possibilities for it to be used for baking were pretty novel.  “Recipes for cake-like gingerbread are the first known to recommend the use of pearl ash [sic], the forerunner of baking powder” (Library of Congress).

 

The U.S. Patent Office granted only three patents in 1790, its first year of existence. . . . One concerned the manufacture of pearlash, the precursor of baking powder, and the other was for automated flour-milling machinery, which led to the fine white flour.  Both are evidence of the importance of our cultural drive for improved cake baking (Ettlinger, 2007). 

 

The Potassium Carbonate in the ingredient pearlash was a strong alkali thus releasing carbon dioxide (when it reacts with an acid) into the dough thus leavening the final product.  Today we depend on a more reliable alkali called sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)—more on that in Part 2.  The problem was that pearlash was great for gunpowder, soap or glass making, but largely unpredictable to bakers with its potency or timing of effect—baking, after all, is an exact science.  A better method needed to be devised because acids were also either unpredictable or hard to come by i.e. sour milk, lemon juice, vinegar or cream of tartar (Ettlinger, 2007).  A more predictable, shelf stable acidic source was needed that could be shipped to the baker and used on demand. 


American Cookery


 

What is baking powder?  “Baking powder is a crystalline powder that combines baking soda with dry acidic ingredients that react when water is added, plus cornstarch to prevent clumping and to control the amount of gas produced per unit of baking powder”  (Joachim & Schloss, 2008).  So what are these dry acidic ingredients that made Rabbit’s cake expand beyond belief?  To answer that, we need to go back to Eben Norton Horsford, a Harvard chemistry professor from 1847 to 1863.  As with many American inventors, Horsford’s life was rather interesting.  He was formally trained as a civil engineer in his home state of New York.  He wanted to marry, but his fiancée’s father would not approve until he was more established—so he set out to Germany for further scientific study.  It was there that the fortune would change for the man who eventually authored, The Theory and Art of Bread-making, A New Process without the Use of Ferment

 

Horsford spent two years in Giessen, studying the nutritive value — including the protein content — of various grains among other topics in organic chemistry. . . . In any event, while in Germany, he was nominated for the Rumford chair at Harvard University. This academic post had been established by Count Rumford, an inventor and entrepreneur. With the strong support of Liebig and his old mentor Webster, Horsford was formally offered the professorship in February 1847, with an annual salary of $1,500 (American Chemical Society, 2007).

 

How did Eben Horsford help the plight of bakers worldwide?  What is monocalcium phosphate (MCP)?  Read Part 2 and we will wrap up this very interesting story of baking powder.  Here is a hint:


 Baking Powder

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Works Cited:

Library of Congress. (n.d.). Amelia simmons, american cookery (1796). Retrieved from http://myloc.gov/Exhibitions/books-that-shaped-america/1750-1800/ExhibitObjects/American-Cookery.aspx

Ettlinger, S. (2007). Twinkie, deconstructed, my journey to discover how the ingredients found in processed foods are grown, mined (yes, mined), and manipulated into what a. (First printing,March 2007 ed., Vol. 1, p. 136). London: Hudson st Pr.

Ibid.

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 121). Toronto: Robert Rose.

American Chemical Society. (2007). Eben horsford. Retrieved from http://acswebcontent.acs.org/landmarks/bakingpowder/horsford.html

 

Photo Credits:

Simmons, A. (1796). American cookery. (p. Cover). Hartford: Hudson & Goodwin. Retrieved from http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/treasures/images/uc006181.jpg

Rumford Baking Powder from Clabber Girl: http://www.clabbergirl.com/consumer/products/rumford/

 

Additional Resources:

Recipe for Challah Bread that shows vigorous kneading: http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/basic-challah-dough

Recipe for Sourdough that also calls for vigorous kneading: http://www.instructables.com/id/No-Sourdough-Buttermilk-Easytastybread/step3/Because-I-knead-the-dough/

Another great baking blogpost on the early uses of pearlash: http://www.fourpoundsflour.com/the-history-dish-pearlash-the-first-chemical-leavening/

Biography of the life of Count Rumford: http://acswebcontent.acs.org/landmarks/bakingpowder/count.html

 

 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Yeast: What is it & what kind should I use?

YEAST 101

What Is it? What kind should I use?


 

You may have heard that there are three different categories of bread: quick breads, sourdough, and yeast breads.  “Quick breads” are cakes, cookies, and any baked product that uses a rising agent other than yeast such as whipped eggs, cream of tartar, baking soda or baking powder.  I will not really address sourdough here (which is where the yeast was originally “caught” and allowed to ferment, creating a highly nutritious and artisan bread).  Most of us start by baking yeast bread.  On this point there are many questions along the line of “what is yeast?”, “what is baker’s yeast?”, and finally…”active dry yeast or instant yeast?”  I hope I can clarify.

 

Chaya's Bread


What is Yeast?

It is a tiny single-cell fungus, and therefore a living thing.  Breads, alcohol, and vinegar require it.  Yes, even sourdoughs.  When people say “I don’t use yeast, I make sourdough” what they intend to say is actually, “I do not add dry yeast, I add sourdough starter.”  The reasons for doing so are plenty—the bacteria in sourdough starter have had plenty of time to start the pre-digestion of the sugars and enzymes that humans sometimes have problems digesting.  This means that the final product will be easier on the stomach.  Even now, many people purchase dehydrated sourdough starter which does resemble the store-bought stuff; it will not behave the same however.  All yeast breaks down the sugars, but the sourdough starter is given great lead-time to do the job more effectively through the fermentation process.


As yeast consumes the sugars, it releases carbon dioxide.  This released gas expands the dough and raises the baked product.  If you have ever used bad yeast (baking a doorstop), you know this all too well.


Although people often fare better on sourdough, yeast itself is a healthy food that has been consumed since the ancient Egyptians discovered how to isolate it (History of Yeast).  As with all things moderation is the key, but yeast within itself is considered to be rich in folate, thiamin, and many other vitamins and minerals (wolfram alpha). Keep in mind that there is not enough yeast in that loaf of bread to truly nourish you, but the vitamins are there just the same.


Baker’s Yeast

 

It is how it sounds; baker’s yeast is the yeast used in bread (as opposed to brewer’s yeast for alcoholic beverages, nutritional yeast which is an inactive flavoring and nutritional supplement, and so on).  The strand of fungus used for leavening bread products is generally the same strand most commonly used for brewing beer—meaning that there is little difference between “baker’s yeast” and “brewer’s yeast”, although they are not exactly interchangeable in your kitchen because they are processed differently. 

 

Types of Baker’s Yeast: Yeast Cakes, Active Dry, Instant

Cake of Yeast

 

Have you ever pulled out grandma’s cookbook to see “1 cake of yeast” written in a margin? Fresh yeast does come in cakes, but because the shelf life is so limited it is rarely considered by the home baker as an option.  The point of semi-dry or dry yeast is that it has a much longer shelf life than fresh yeast.  Remember, yeast is a living thing that needs to be fed.  If it is fresh and in some type of storage without sugars added to it, it will die of starvation.  It simply lies dormant in a dried state.

Once upon a time, there were vast differences in the performance of active dry yeast and instant yeast—not so much now.  Many see little difference in the effect by interchanging these ingredients in beloved recipes, although most bakers do have a favorite!


Active Dry Yeast


People do say that a reason to prefer instant yeast is that it can be added directly to the dry ingredients and does not need to be “proofed”.  I say, for as easy as it is to proof the yeast and determine its efficacy, it is a step worthy of five minutes.  In fact, I always proof my yeast whether I am using active dry or instant.  I treat the yeast the same and I get the same result (noticeably, anyway). 



Yeast Guide



Conclusion

My biggest advice to a new bread baker—do not get too caught up in all of the details of getting things perfectly, do not spend precious bread-baking time reading forum threads quarrelling through the “instant vs. active dry” debate.  Play around, see what works best for you, and above all else…

Enjoy your bread,

Chaya



 

 

Side Note:  Many people enjoy using brewer’s yeast as a health supplement.  It is an active yeast, and any active yeast eaten (without baking first) will continue to grow inside the intestines and can deplete you of nutrients.  My recommendation? Get the vitamin B and other great nutrients available in the inactive nutritional yeast


Nutritional Yeast


It is delicious as a topping to popcorn, soups, and other dishes.  I highly recommend nutritional yeast, and you can find that here.

 



 

Sources:

“History of Yeast” accessed 12/9/2012 at http://en.angelyeast.com/about/Yeast.html

“Nutritional Contents of Yeast” accessed through Wolfram Alpha.

The Cook’s Thesaurus, “Yeast” accessed 12/9/2012 at http://www.foodsubs.com/LeavenYeast.html

 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

 

Spicy Red Thai Beef Curry for a cold winter’s day

Spicy Red Thai Curry

 

Car racing, Crock-pots® & a red curry Thai recipe

 

 

red curry Thai recipe at the race


Cheating and racing go together like corruption and politics.  I would have to imagine that the first chariot race was likely the next chapter in a long tradition of one guy trying to improve his odds by some technological advantage over the other guy.  So when you are involved in an endurance race where the main rule is that the car cannot be worth more than $500—you can expect a lot of extra effort goes in behind the scenes to bend the rules in order to ensure that the car is going to run as fast as possible.  Keeping the drivers fueled is as important as keeping the car going.  Orangey string cheese in a can just is not going to cut it, for endurance racing you need Thai curry.


Thai Curry 


With all that extra effort one can get pretty hungry, so the crew has to be good with that Crock-pot® or slow cooker.  When the guys at work were running this past summer, I got invited to hang out for a weekend of heroic fixes and busted knuckles.  Since everyone loves to eat, I borrowed a slow cooker and discovered this new favorite recipe for Thai Curry.  While summer is now over, I can only imagine how much better I would love this red Thai curry on a cold winter’s day.  I followed this recipe from aTasteofThai.com  


Thai curry recipe

 

Since blogs do not convey tastes and smells you are going to have to take my word for it that this Thai curry recipe is amazing! 


Yield: 4-6 Servings  Prep time: 30 minutes to assemble  

Cook time: 5 hours to cook on high or 8 hours to cook on low

 

Here are the ingredients:

2 tablespoons tallow or lardl
2-2 1/2 lbs stew beef
2 large onions, chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1-1.75 oz box Red Curry Paste*
3 large red potatoes, cut into chunks
3 medium organic carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
3 stalks organic celery, cut into1 inch chunks
1-13.5 oz can Coconut Milk
3 tablespoons Fish Sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Optional:
Chopped peanuts and cilantro
*Red Curry Paste can be substituted with Panang or Green Curry Paste.  If using green only add 1 1/2 tablespoons curry.


Directions:

  1. In large pot, heat tallow. Add beef and brown on all sides.
  2. Add onions, garlic and sauté until soft.  Add Red Curry Paste, sauté until curry is dissolved and fragrant.
  3. Add potatoes, carrots, celery, Coconut Milk, Fish Sauce and brown sugar. Stir well and bring to a boil.
  4. Pour stew into crock pot.  Cook for 5 hours on high or 8 hours on low.  Garnish with chopped peanuts and cilantro if desired.


recipe for Thai curry

 

The recipe called for fish sauce . . . I skipped that, so your mileage may vary.  I did serve this Thai curry with the cilantro and raw peanuts over rice and it is sooooooo wonderful!  Give it a try and leave a comment as to how you liked it.  


Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Photo Credits:

All photos by Pantry Paratus

Pantry Paratus Radio, Episode 020: We talk Cloth Diapering with Cheeky Bums Market

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Pantry Paratus Radio, Episode 020: We talk Cloth Diapering with Cheeky Bums Market

 

The Ins & Outs of Cloth Diapering

 

Meet Kelsi & Gretchen from CheekyBumsMarket.com, who stop by to explain cloth diapering.  Why, in this modern era of disposables, would anyone be this crazy?  Truth is cloth diapering is the real food movement on the *achemm* other end of things.  If you the image you get in your mind when you hear cloth diapers is putting a square cloth towel on a three dimensional round baby’s bottom meanwhile trying not to prick that tender skin with diaper pins then please pull up a chair and listen as we have a nice long chat about the ease (yes, ease!) value and health benefits of cloth diapering.  CheekyBumsMarket.com has also included a coupon code for you: PANTRY15 which will take 15% off of any order as well as give you $1 shipping until December 31, 2012!!!


Diapers


Right Click Here to Download This Episode


 


Listen to internet radio with Preparedness Radio Network on Blog Talk Radio



We talk about:

 

 

 

-Introduction to Kelsi and Gretchen

 

 

 

-“Raising Vintage Kids in a Modern World”

 

 

 

-Cloth diapers, really?  Why cloth?

 

 

 

-Cloth diapers are the real food application for the other end :o)  Think foodie one step removed

 

 

 

-How Chaya and Wilson got into cloth diapering

 

 

 

-Crunching the numbers of cloth diapering over $8-10K on diapers—wow! 

 

 

 

-Chlorinated bleach and other VOC’s near your baby’s bottom

 

 

 

-$300-400 initial expense for a layette that will last from birth to potty training—can be reused on younger siblings.  This is a Delta on the order of >$3K.

 

 

 

-The story behind how Chaya and Wilson made the set of cloth diapers that we used on all three of our kids

 

 

 

-How Kelsi and Gretchen decided on the diaper products that they sell

 

 

 

-Be Picky! 

 

 

 

-They put it in a diaper, it must be okay—right? 

 

 

 

-Cloth diapers can work for a working mom

 

 

 

-What do disposable diapers have in common with the toxic shock syndrome tampons?

 

 

 

-Disposable diapers, monkeys and fertility

 

 

 

-Cloth diaper materials are much better than older options available decades ago

 

 

 

-Cloth diapers help the child to understand the cause and effect relationship between bodily functions and that wet or soiled feeling

 

 

 

-Get the straight scoop on the “ick” factor

 

 

 

-The laundering process for cloth diapers—it is not that terrible, trust us

 

 

 

-Types of water and how that effects the washing cycle

 

 

 

-Travelling with cloth diapers

 

 

 

-What fasteners are used?  Diaper pins near my baby freak me out!

 

 

 

-Cloth, diaper covers and the all-in-one cloth diapers

 

 

 

-Cloth diaper options depending on the child (i.e. crawler, walker, boy, girls, etc.)

 

 

 

-There is nothing cuter that a baby in cloth diapers

 

 

 

-Driers will wear out your cloth diapers sooner, plus the sun is a great disinfectant (when line drying diapers)

 

 

 

-“You have kids, you have laundry.”

 

 

 

-Kids clothing fits differently over a cloth diapered bottoms

 

 

 

-Cloth diaper wipes, no seriously

 

 

 

-Cheekybums blog

 

 

 

-wrap up

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Links:

 

CheekyBumsMarket.com

 

CheekyBumsBlog

 

WebMD article on cloth vs. disposable diapers

 

Livestrong.com article on heat concerns in disposable diapers

 

German study on scrotal temperature in Monkeys wearing disposable diapers

 

 

 

Proviso:

 

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

 


When giving thanks starts with five kernels of corn

 When Giving Thanks Starts with 5 Kernels of Corn

Forgotten First Thanksgiving History

 

Hanging Corn

 

Turkey has always been in fashion for Thanksgiving.  Along with that, add in the traditional Pilgrim buckles and Native American feather head dressings and you have a uniquely American holiday steeped in lots of tradition and even some folklore.

 

Digging a bit deeper into the first Thanksgiving story, four years before the Pilgrim’s landed at Plymouth Rock there was a large tribe of Native Americans there called the Patuxets.  All the members of this tribe, every man, woman and child, died of a mysterious plague.    Neighboring tribes had refused to come to the grounds because they were thought to be cursed.  The Divine Providence of the Pilgrims even getting to the New World is an entire story within itself, but the Pilgrims happened to land at the one part of land that was uninhabited because the previous residents had been wiped out.  I have personally lived through many New England winters along the coast, and they are predictably brutal.  This makes the resolve of the Pilgrims all the more remarkable to establish their colony within the context of religious freedom in the New World.  Of all of the times to arrive, it was in the unenviable month of December, 1620. 

 

 

By the time March arrived the Pilgrims had lost forty-seven of their original number.  They had been living primarily off of the finite amount of stored food from the ship’s galley, had depleted their supply of lemon juice, and had a building (that housed the sick) catch on fire. Lemons Moreover they did not know anything of the agriculture of America and only had English wheat and barley to attempt to cultivate come spring.  The body can only endure so much exposure to wet, cold, and lack of vitamin C for so long and it was looking like things could not get much worse.  At about this time a Native American man approached the settlement and greeted them in English.  The man’s name was Samoset and he was driven by wanderlust to come and greet the newly arrived settlers.  He was from a tribe further north.  He had learned to speak English from various fishing crews who had put in to shore near his village on the coast of Maine.  Samoset would leave and return with another Native American man named Squanto (real name was Tisquantum), “and he was to be, according to Bradford, ‘a special instrument sent of God for their good, beyond their expectation’” (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Squanto Teaching


Among many other noteworthy mentions about Squanto was the fact that he was a member of the decimated Patuxet tribe.  God had seen Squanto through a number of remarkable circumstances to prepare him to be the one person who could help the Pilgrims evade death and starvation. 

 

His story really begins in 1605, when Squanto and four other [Native Americans] were taken captive. . . . Squanto spent the next nine years in England, where he met Captain John Smith, recently of Virginia who promised to take him back to his people on Cape Cod, as soon as he himself could get a command bound for there . . . On Smith’s 1614 voyage of mapping and exploring, Squanto was returned to the Patuxets, at the place Smith named New Plymouth.  Sailing with Smith’s expedition on another ship was Captain Thomas Hunt, whom Smith ordered to stay behind . . . as soon as Smith departed, he slipped back down the coast to Plymouth, where he lured twenty Patuxets aboard, including Squanto, apparently to barter, and promptly clapped them in irons. . . . All of these he took to Malaga, a notorious slave-trading port on the coast of Spain. . . . Most of them were shipped off to North Africa, but a few were bought and rescued by local friars, who introduced them to the Christian faith.  Thus did God begin Squanto’s preparation for the role he would play in Plymouth (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Squanto did eventually make his way back to Plymouth, however when he landed (approximately six months before the Pilgrims landed) he found that his native land was devoid of his people who had been previously wiped out by a plague.  It was not until March when he met these poor, wretched, starving settlers that he knew why God had taken him on that long circuitous route back to his homeland.  Squanto first taught them how to catch eels, then taught them something far more valuable:

 

For it would save every one of their lives.  April was corn-planting month in New England, as well as Virginia.  Squanto showed the Pilgrims how to plant corn in the Indian way, hoeing six-foot squares in toward the center, putting down four or five kernels, and then fertilizing the corn with fish.  At that, the Pilgrims just shook their heads; in four months they had caught exactly one cod.  No matter, said Squanto cheerfully; in four days the creeks would be overflowing with fish. . . . Squanto helped in a thousand similar ways, teaching them how to stalk deer, plant pumpkins among the corn, refine maple syrup from maple trees, discern which herbs were good to eat and good for medicine, and find the best berries (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Native Corn

 

The agricultural knowledge of Squanto was critical to the Pilgrim’s survival.  Some have wondered what that knowledge would have developed into today had it not been for other factors in history.  But the point remains that the body of knowledge that allows humans to produce food is indispensible to our livelihoods.  Since Thanksgiving tradition centers around the bountiful meal, I thought it fitting to take a minute to think about how that food is produced and brought to market.  How long the supply chains are, possible customs or tariffs involved, what the farmer has to do just to break even or turn a profit on that crop or livestock?  Buying local is great, but producing and preserving your own food is tough to beat.  And if you think about it, the benefits to reduce the pressure on the small percentage of American farmers who produce all that food for our nation as well as other parts of the world is considerable.  More on that in later blogs, back to Thanksgiving history.

 

The Pilgrims were brimming over with gratitude—not only to Squanto and the Wampanoags who had been so friendly, but to their God.  In Him they had trusted, and He had honored their obedience beyond their dreams.  So, Governor Bradford declared a day of public Thanksgiving, to be held in October (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Wild Turkey

 

And so the first Thanksgiving was a joint feast with the Pilgrims and their new found Native American friends led by Sachem Massasoit—who brought turkeys and venison.  In November 1621, just before the onset of winter a ship dropped anchor letting off thirty-five additional settlers who did not bring any food, tools or extra clothes.  The joyous reunion was cut short. 

 

Thus, they did enter their own starving time that winter of 1621-22 (with all the extra people to feed and shelter), and were ultimately reduced to a daily ration of five kernels of corn a piece.  (Five kernels of corn—it is almost inconceivable how life could be supported on this.)  But as always, they had a choice: either to give into bitterness and despair or to go deeper into Christ.  They chose Christ, and in contrast to what happened at Jamestown, not one of them died of starvation” (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Empty Dish

 

In spite of one more close call with a near weather disaster during the planting and harvesting season, the Pilgrims experienced a bountiful harvest the following summer of 1622.  So great was their food surplus that they were able to trade with other northern tribes who had not reaped such an abundance.  And so came the second Thanksgiving feast with Sachem Massasoit and company—who again brought turkeys and venison.  It really makes me wonder why venison did not catch on. 

 

There was one twist to the second Thanksgiving regarding the first course that was served: “on an empty plate in front of each person were five kernels of corn . . . lest anyone should forget” (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 What is Thanksgiving?  It is a feast, yes.  It is American history, that is true.  But it is the realization that Providence is enough.  Thanksgiving is remembering the overabundance of  things for which we give thanks, but it is also remembering the times in which we had little, and being thankful anyway.

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 


 

Post-Script: Some critics of Peter Marshall have taken exception to his lack of pedigree for historical studies while juxtaposing that criticism next to the fact that he is a Reverend.  I personally do not put stock in the thrust of this book.  I love America dearly, but I do not see her as a “New Israel” (Here are two randomly chosen different views on that subject).   Nor am I concerned on whether the Puritan Pilgrims believed that or not, rather I am focusing in on “the starving time“, the tradition of the 5 kernels of corn, and Thanksgiving history as told through the early Pilgrim settlers on Plymouth Rock captured so well in chapter six of this book. 

 

  1. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 130). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.
  2. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 130-131). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.
  3. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 135). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.
  4. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 139). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.
  5. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 144). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.

 


 

Photo Credits:

Hanging Corn:  http://www.rgbstock.com/photo/nogkO8C/hanging+corn

Squanto Teaching: Bricker, Garland Armor. The Teaching of Agriculture in the High School. New York: Macmillan, 1911. Page 112.

Corn by Arvind Balaraman / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Lemons by Suat Eman / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Turkey by Arvind Balaraman / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Empty dish by chawalitpix / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

South Sudan: Meet the Wood Family

 Meet the Wood Family

Missionaries to South Sudan



The U.S. State Department issues this warning: Do NOT go to South Sudan! 

South Sudan Map



So why would the Wood family move there?  Because few others would dare.  There is a very great need in this war-torn country and the Wood family is prepared to meet this challenge head-on.   They plan to live out their lives as an example, to hold regular Bible studies, and to give all they have to this hurting community.  And on that note, hear what they say:  “Regarding humanitarian means, the goal is not to give handouts but to teach the local people to learn skills to be self-sufficient. It is our prayer that we can teach teachers, to more effectively spread this knowledge.” 


The Wood Family

We, at Pantry Paratus, are excited about this work and we want to give everyone an opportunity to participate in it.   We have the easy part—Micah, Dania, and that sweet little baby—they will give up virtually everything they know in this life, so dedicated are they to this cause.  If you would like to join with us, let them know!  You can learn more about them and contact them through their website.


They want to teach self-sufficiency to the South Sudanese, and we want to help equip them.  This is what we are doing: For every Stronghold Haywire Klamper purchased,  100% of the proceeds will go directly to this ministry.  We are calling it “Buy One Give One” because for every Klamper purchased, they will receive either a Klamper or –if we can sell enough– we’ll buy Berkeys to help their community access clean drinking water!  

 


 

 UPDATE:  As of Mid-February, over $3,000 has been raised for South Sudan through Klamper Sales!  Thank you for your continued support!  Berkeys and Klampers have been sent to the Wood family, and we will continue to do so as the money is raised.


 

Here are some facts about South Sudan:

* It is the newest country (and is recognized by the United States, Israel, the United Nations, and others, but it has been fighting for independence since the 1950’s!

* It is approximately the size of Texas.

* It has only 100 miles of paved roads.

* It has the 2nd worst literacy rate in the world.

* Only 5% of the country has improved drinking water.

* It is constantly under attack by its neighbor, Sudan and the terrorist mercenaries know as “janjaweed.”

 



Looking for the Stronghold Haywire Klamper?

Klamper BOGO



 

 

 

Bleach, What Does it Have to Do With Flour?

Bleached flour, is that supposed to be refined?


Bleached or Unbleached flour—do I get the same results?


Bleached, Storebought Flour

 

To better understand bleached flour we would do best to get to know the gradients of flour better.  Sifting flour once makes it “clear”; sifting twice elevates it to “patent” (or “second clear”).  People want the “clearest” flour they can find.   According to Joel Salatin, all grain is actually very expensive and pretty much always has been through history before the age of cheap energy.  If something becomes hard to get, it generally becomes more valuable; and what is considered more valuable is also associated with the appearance of wealth. The fact that societies even had grain at all was a sign of relative peace (no one was raiding or burning crops) and the presence of grain was a pretty good metric for prosperity (people had time and energy to plant instead of hunting and gathering). 

 

The more flour is sifted the more “debris” is removed.  What is left is endosperm or the pure starch and small amounts of protein (think fuel) for the wheat kernel to germinate from seed to plant.  This process of discarding the roughage (the bran and germ portions of the wheat kernel) is an aberrant and abhorrent one, but has been around for centuries

 

Early millers in Europe found that by passing flour though sieves of various sizes, the grain could be separated from its refuse, which made white flours the choice of priviledged classes (hence the term “refined”) and whole-grain flours the ingredient of peasants. . . . Interestingly, when white flour production was threatened during the Second World War, the British government outlawed white bread, replacing it with a rough whole-grain bread, nicknamed “the National Loaf.”  Surprisingly, during a time of deprivation, the mean nutrition level improved, just the opposite of what would have been expected.  (Joachim & Schloss, 2008)

 WWII Rations Book


Flour without the “debris” was considered more valuable even though it is not as healthy or filling.  But to a baker, the quality of the flour is imperitive because flour “is called the ‘100 percent ingredient,’ against which all other ingredients stand in ratio” (Reinhart & Manville, 2002).  The biggest factor in determining final baked product quality is the amount of protein in the flour.  Although not exclusively gluten, for the sake of discussion we can say the “gluten content” of the flour is king. 

                   Cake Flour: 6-7% Gluten

                   Pastry Flour: 7.5-9.5% Gluten

                   All-Purpose Flour: 9.5-11.5% Gluten  *depends where it is grown and milled

                   Bread Flour: 11.5-13.5% Gluten

                   High-Gluten Flour: 13.5 to (rare but possible) 16% Gluten

                   Above chart attributed to (Reinhart & Manville, 2002)

 

Sometimes in Europe you see flour labeled as “#55” or “#65” which refers to the quality of the sifted final product which—again– will determine the outcome of the result of the baked goods.  Most of us understand that the more heavier parts of the wheat kernel can weigh the flour down, making a light, fluffy texture difficult (not impossible, difficult).   But all of that has to do with the granularity of the flour, what can we expect when we buy flour bleached?  And here is another question you may have asked, “If you buy unbleached flour you may notice that it is slightly more expensive, why is that?”  As it turns out, the color of the flour correlates with the thread count of the table cloth. 

 

The whiter the flour the more valuable it was thought to be.  If you have been following this blog, that makes about as much sense as a stripped down car selling for more than a fully loaded one, but I digress . . .   Flour when it comes out of the grain mill is naturally yellowish as it boasts of the carotene pigments in the wheat berry that also correlate to the proportion of the gluten.  Below you can see darker, hard red wheat on the left and hard white wheat on the right. 

Hard Red & Hard White Wheat Comparison

             

     

Millers and bakers knew that this process happened naturally. 

If given half a chance, though, flour bleaches itself.  That is, as it ages in contact with air, the pigments are oxidized and transformed into colorless compounds.  But aging requires storage time, and time is money.  That’s why “unbleached” —meaning naturally self-bleached during storage—flour costs more (Wolke & Parrish, 2005).

 

Historically, whole wheat flour was fermented.  Time and bacteria did the work naturally and healthfully.  But now the need was to have refined flour stripped, whitened and –by golly– this needed to be done expeditiously.  After millennia of slow, healthy, whole food, the process needed some chemical accelerants.  In 1774 a Swedish chemist named Carl Wilhelm Scheele isolated an element that was officially named Chlorine in 1810 by a British chemist named Sir Humphry Davy (Ettlinger, 2007).  This new element was later pressed into service as an artificial aging agent. 

 

Is there a measurable performance difference between bleached and unbleached flour? 


Evidently there is:

The bleaching of flour isn’t mere cosmetics.  Flour that has been matured, either by natural aging or by being treated with oxidizing agents, makes doughs that bakers report as being more elastic during kneading.  That’s because oxidation not only removes the yellow color of flour but removes certain sulfur-containing chemicals (thiols) that interfere with the formation of gluten (Wolke & Parrish, 2005).

 

The bleaching process is pretty much assumed to have happened to store bought flour unless you see it labeled specifically as “unbleached flour.”  This brings us to national security and the Department of Homeland Security’s interest in cake flour.  No, seriously.  Chlorine gas is very toxic, like banned in the Geneva Convention kind of toxic—so it has to be tightly controlled and transported in highly protected rail cars so that it does not get into the wrong hands.   A separate danger is that flour is also very fine organic particulate that can be explosive under the right conditions and concentrations. 


 Chaya recently wrote an article about the effects of chlorine in water.  If you think chlorine is benign enough to put in grandma’s cookies, think again.


And so there you have it, bleached flour was to accelerate the process that delivers us the finest of flours, cake flour.  If you are playing along with the home game here, cake flour is stripped and artificially aged (bleached flour) so that it is the least nutritious least-likely-to-be-confused-with-healthy-bread, refined flour that you can buy.    I think that I will stick with grinding my own flour in our grain mill. 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 



Chaya’s Note:  Although bakers who care more about aesthetics than health like to age their flours (or cheat and bleach them), aging your flour is a terrible idea!  The extremely digestible nutrition of whole wheat is mostly found in oils.  This even includes the iron, which oxidize with time and air exposure.  Please use your home milled flour immediately—or put the rest in the freezer.   If you want to use the oxidation process to lighten your flour, soak it in warm water before mixing in the other ingredients.  This fermenting process will give you moister, lighter bread every time in a healthy way!

If you think you need sifted, all-purpose, bleached flour to get delicious and light results, think again.  It takes practice, but you’ll get amazing artisan bread that will nourish your family by using the whole wheat! The picture below is of homemade Challah bread (traditional Jewish bread for Sabbath) using home-milled flour.

Challah Bread--with whole wheat flour

 

 


 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Photo Credits:

 Child’s Rations Book:  The National Archives UK

All other photos are property of Pantry Paratus.



Works Cited:

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 241). Toronto: Robert Rose.

Reinhart, P., & Manville, R. (2002). The bread baker\’s apprentice, mastering the art of extraordinary bread. (p. 29). Ten Speed Pr.

Ibid

Wolke, R. L., & Parrish, M. (2005). What einstein told his cook 2, the sequel : Further adventures in kitchen science. (1st ed. ed., p. 217). New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company.

Ettlinger, S. (2007). Twinkie, deconstructed, my journey to discover how the ingredients found in processed foods are grown, mined (yes, mined), and manipulated into what a. (First printing,March 2007 ed., Vol. 1, p. 22). London: Hudson st Pr.

Wolke, R. L., & Parrish, M. (2005). What einstein told his cook 2, the sequel : Further adventures in kitchen science. (1st ed. ed., p. 217). New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company.

 


UPDATE:  While doing some research on FDA regulations regarding “Whole Wheat”, I came across this regulation about the bleach content found in wheat:

Unless such addition conceals damage or inferiority or makes the whole wheat flour             appear to be better or of greater value than it is, the optional bleaching ingredient azodicarbonamide (complying with the requirements of 172.806 of this chapter, including the quantitative limit of not more than 45 parts per million) or chlorine dioxide, or chlorine, or a mixture of nitrosyl chloride and chlorine, may be added in a quantity not more than sufficient for bleaching and artificial aging effects.  

You can find this on fda.gov  with this identifying information:

 

[Code of Federal Regulations]
[Title 21, Volume 2]
[Revised as of April 1, 2012]
[CITE: 21CFR137.200]


 


 

Carrageenan, the Dark Side of Chocolate Milk

Carrageenan, the Dark Side of Chocolate Milk

 

What is carrageenan? Is there a connection between carrageenan and cancer?

 

 

You take the perfect thing like milk and you combine it with another perfect think like chocolate and what results is awesomeness by the glassful.  So why do things that we love so much have ingredients that are so hard to pronounce?  Does anyone remember their Mom adding carrageenan to their chocolate milk?

 

First of all, what is carrageenan?  It is actually in the family of gums derived from plants (which differ from gelatins, “think protein” derived from animals) which “are complex carbohydrates, long chains of sugar molecules (polysaccharides) that have the ability to absorb liquid in an amount that is many times their volume” (Joachim & Schloss, 2008).   Carrageenan is widely used as a thickening agent because it can attract water, can be ethically harvested, has excellent properties for industrial food processing plants and is pretty cheap. 


Chondrus Crispus

 

Carrageenan in food is actually not new, it has been around for hundreds of years because of where and how humans have developed it as a natural resource.  Carrageenan Moss also known as “Irish Moss” or Chondrus Crispus is a type of seaweed.  Its job in seaweed is to help hold the plant erect while yet allowing it to be flexible as it gets tossed about in the surf.  The carrageenan in plant cells improves the strength of the plant fibers without allowing it to break—think of a water bed.  As mentioned above, it is among the most ethically harvested crop produced by small aquaculture farmers because it does not require soil to be tilled or fresh water to cultivate this plant (FMC Corporation).  The Chinese have been recorded to use it as far back as 600 BC (Bechtel, 2012) and it also appears to be a long standing part of Irish culinary tradition. 

 

Modern uses for carrageenan in food includes veggie burgers, soy milk, beer, ice cream and yes, chocolate milk.  Here is why: “In industry they [gums like carrageenan] are highly valued because they have the ability to thin under pressure and then return to their original viscosity, a quality that makes them ideal for being pumped through factory pipelines without losing their thickening abilities” (Joachim & Schloss, 2008). 

 


 

 

When Scooter was a baby, he showed allergies to milk—pasteurized homogenized feed lot milk to be exact.  He was a breast fed baby so he was fine with real milk and likely would have been fine on raw milk, but we were not including that as a part of our family’s diet then.  However, he did well on soy milk, so the-ever-thrifty-Chaya decided that we could save some money if we bought a plant milk maker to make soy milk, almond milk, hazelnut milk, etc.  No matter how hard we tried or what recipe we followed, our final product never came out like the store bought stuff—why not?  It lacked the wonder additive carrageenan.   

 

If you have ever eaten sushi, then you have likely had seaweed, so what is the big deal?  It turns out that there is much discussion and some disagreement on this food additive.  It is “natural” and even has been accepted as being organic.  The disagreement surfaces around the nexus between carrageenan and cancer.  Just when you thought that there was not one more thing that could cause cancer, carrageenan gets thrown under the bus—but wait . . .

 

It turns out that carrageenan comes in three main classes (kappa, iota, and lambda) and two clear types diverge from there: degraded and undegraded.  This is where the food label conscious consumer needs to keep a sharp eye out for how the words get parsed.  The neigh-sayers for carrageenan claim that the degraded variety can cause inflammation (a red flag precursor for cancer) and has been linked to show that it causes colon cancer in lab rats.    Degraded carrageenan is basically short chain polysaccharides.  Where have we seen this before?  Corn sugar is not bad, but when you break long chain corn sugar into short chain high fructose corn syrup—all kinds of bad things happen in the body. 


Chocolate Milk

 

On the pro side of carrageenan are some heavyweights like Stoneyfield Organic, the FDA, the independent scientists of the Joint Food, the Agriculture Organization of the United Nations/World Health Organization Expert Committee on Food Additives (JECFA) and the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) (Lundgren, 2012).  The above group clearly draws the line between degraded (not used in food) and undegraded (approved for use in food) as the link between carrageenan and cancer.  The plot thickens (pun intended) . . .

 

Concerns about carrageenan have centered on the “degraded” type which is distinguished from the “undegraded” type by its lower molecular weight. Most of the studies linking carrageenan to cancer and other gastrointestinal disorders have focused on degraded carrageenan. But Dr. Tobacman thinks that undegraded carrageenan – the kind most widely used as a food additive – might also be associated with malignancies and other stomach problems. She suggests that such factors as bacterial action, stomach acid and food preparation may transform undegraded carrageenan into the more dangerous degraded type (Weil , 2002).

 

 

We have clearly made the line between degraded (clearly bad) and undegraded (bad?) carrageenan in food sources, yet that above quote seems rather indicting to carrageenan altogether.  So what else can be said about the transformation of carrageenan from undegraded to degraded inside the gut—is this possible?  Turns out that science has asked this question too, and here is a quote from Stoneyfield’s website:


Undegraded carrageenan resists degradation in the digestive tract, and is therefore unlikely to be absorbed by the intestine, according to a review of the toxicology literature on carrageenan conducted by Cohen and Ito in 2006.

“Because carrageenan is extracted from seaweeds under alkaline conditions, degradation to smaller polymerized polysaccharides is avoided. As long as the pH is maintained above 6.0, carrageenan is stable to heat processing. Once carrageenan is in the gel configuration, as is the case for its use in food systems, the carrageenan becomes highly resistant to degradation, even under more acidic conditions, such as occur in the stomach (see Section 1.2.3).” They go on to state, “Carrageenan ingested in the gel form (either as a homogenous carrageenan gel or one consisting of a carrageenan /protein gel from a meat or a dairy food) is also stable to the conditions of passage through the digestive tract (Abraham et al., 1972; Benitz et al., 1973; Arakawa et al., 1988; Weiner, 1988). Because of its large molecular weight, carrageenan remains within the lumen of the digestive tract and is not absorbed (Weiner, 1988; 1991). Thus, there are no systemic effects of carrageenan following ingestion by rats, mice, or monkeys.” [Emphasis Stoneyfield] (Lundgren, 2012).

 

It becomes much more clear now.  Milk is acidic (lactic acid) and the stomach is definitely acidic (hydrochloric acid), so the PH seems to be within tolerance and the gut will not transform the carrageenan from undegraded to degraded as was hypothesized by Dr. Tobacman.  However, there are those who are against carrageenan getting a “free pass” (Bechtel, 2012).  Juxtapose that with other supporters like the website Carageenan.info and you have another conflict of claims.  However, the science above settles it for me. 

 

So why do I personally not want to drink chocolate milk with carrageenan in it?  Let us look at these three labels for Trickling Springs Organic Chocolate Milk, Trickling Springs Natural Chocolate Milk and Nesquik respectively:


Chocolate Milk Labels

 

If you look at the Natural chocolate milk and the Nesquik® you see that they both contain carrageenan.  Hmmmmmm, and then you look at the label on the left that says the organic chocolate milk does not have carrageenan in it—wait, I thought that carrageenan was approved for organic foods? 


Here is a little secret, Trickling Springs Creamery out of Chambersburg, PA (and other responsible dairies like this) is a commercial grass fed dairy farm.  Their creamline style milk (the label on the left) is as lightly pasteurized as the law will allow and usually has a big head of cream on it, while their “natural” style milk (label in the center) is pasteurized and homogenized.  This organic grass fed milk is loaded with the fat soluble activators that makes grass fed milk nutritionally superior, thick and naturally creamy to boot.  So why do I not drink chocolate milk with carrageenan in it anymore?  Because grass fed cow’s milk does not need to be thickened—the carrageenan is unnecessary.  You can always take raw milk (where legal) and Frontier Cocoa Powder and have the best chocolate milk ever!

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria


Addendum: My whole argument above concludes that the organic milk does not need to have carrageenan in it because the milk is better off as a raw product and does not need a thickening agent.  I recently had a reader look up the Trickling Springs Creamery labels and find that the organic chocolate milk ingredients list does have carrageenan.  “Please advise” the reader wrote.  While I have had this milk and have enjoyed it, I did not notice that TSC has added carrageenan now making my above statements only true on the date that I wrote this blog one year ago.  I was glad that someone took the time to fact-check my work, but I was disappointed to find out that the organic version does include carrageenan.  I have not heard back from TSC on why this is so.  –Wilson Nov 2013


 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Photo Credits:

Chocolate Milk is from http://www.tricklingspringscreamery.com/products/milk/chocolate-milk

Chondrus Crispus is from http://www.carrageenan.info/Home.aspx

Composition photograph contains nutrition labels from Trickling Springs Creamery http://www.tricklingspringscreamery.com/products and Nesquick http://www.nesquik.com/adults/products/nesquikreadytodrink/chocolate.aspx#.  The picture of the Chondrus Crispus is from http://www.carrageenan.info/Home.aspx


 

Works Cited:

 

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 292). Toronto: Robert Rose.

 

FMC Corporation. (n.d.). Carrageenan (seaweed extract): Setting the record straight. Retrieved from http://www.carrageenan.info/ClaimsvsFacts.aspx

 

BECHTEL, J. (2012, March 17). Carrageenan: A food additive that’s not as safe as you think. Retrieved from http://blog.healthkismet.com/carrageenan-cancer-health-inflammation

 

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 293). Toronto: Robert Rose.

 

Lundgren, B. (2012, June 01). The question of carrageenan safety. Retrieved from http://www.stonyfield.com/blog/2012/06/01/carrageenan-safety/

 

Weil , A. (2002, MAR 21). Can carrageenan in some soy milk cause cancer? [Web log message]. Retrieved from http://www.drweil.com/drw/u/id/QAA44833

 

Lundgren, B. (2012, June 01). The question of carrageenan safety. Retrieved from http://www.stonyfield.com/blog/2012/06/01/carrageenan-safety/

BECHTEL, J. (2012, March 17). Carrageenan: A food additive that’s not as safe as you think. Retrieved from http://blog.healthkismet.com/carrageenan-cancer-health-inflammation