Baking Powder, the Expanded History Part 1

Baking Powder

 

What is Baking Powder? How do we get it and what does it really do?

 

 

Baking Powder has always been a rather mysterious ingredient to me.  Baking is a controlled chemistry experiment in your home.  Like Rachel Ray, I am not a great baker because I rarely measure things so precisely (I leave that department to my wife, Chaya).  While the “little of this, little of that” method works great for sauces or stir fries, it is wildly unpredictable for something as precise as baking where ingredients are weighed by the pros not measured by volume. 

 

We happen to have three very dedicated fans of Pooh Bear in our house, and I cannot tell you how many times we have read the story, “Honey of a Cake” to them.  In case you are not as conversant in the adventures of the Hundred Acre Woods I will bring you up to speed on the story, Rabbit wanted to bake a cake and Pooh, Tigger and Piglet wanted to “help.”  Rabbit gives the advice that every baker would give a novice: the recipe is to be followed exactly or else you run the risk of ruining it.  As you may have guessed, this controlled chemistry experiment in Rabbit’s kitchen goes awry when Rabbit turns his back after dispensing the bit of knowledge to the group that the baking powder helps the cake to rise and become bigger.  Well, if a little cake is good then more cake must be better, right?  The story ends with a huge mess that the foursome has to eat their way out of, but it shows the power of this unassuming chemical leavener. 

 

For millennia bakers knew of two ways to leaven (or create a rise in) a baked product: yeast or elbow grease.  Yeast is the natural way of getting a rise in a baked product as this single-cell fungus digests the sugar it releases carbon dioxide (see Chaya’s great blog on yeast).  The trouble with yeast is that it takes awhile to work (after you proof it) and when you are in the mood for cake you probably do not want to wait that long.  Alternatively you could have a batter with a high egg content and vigorously whip it to introduce air bubbles into the batter.


 

 


The use of a chemical leavener seems to be uniquely attributed to the (perhaps accidental) success of early American bakers.  America’s first cookbook written by Amelia Simmons titled, American Cookery (you can preview it here from the LoC) is the earliest written source known to call for a substance known as “pearlash.”  Pearlash (Potassium Carbonate) is the refined residue that is reclaimed from wood ashes (potash) which was known to be used to make lye for soap, but the possibilities for it to be used for baking were pretty novel.  “Recipes for cake-like gingerbread are the first known to recommend the use of pearl ash [sic], the forerunner of baking powder” (Library of Congress).

 

The U.S. Patent Office granted only three patents in 1790, its first year of existence. . . . One concerned the manufacture of pearlash, the precursor of baking powder, and the other was for automated flour-milling machinery, which led to the fine white flour.  Both are evidence of the importance of our cultural drive for improved cake baking (Ettlinger, 2007). 

 

The Potassium Carbonate in the ingredient pearlash was a strong alkali thus releasing carbon dioxide (when it reacts with an acid) into the dough thus leavening the final product.  Today we depend on a more reliable alkali called sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)—more on that in Part 2.  The problem was that pearlash was great for gunpowder, soap or glass making, but largely unpredictable to bakers with its potency or timing of effect—baking, after all, is an exact science.  A better method needed to be devised because acids were also either unpredictable or hard to come by i.e. sour milk, lemon juice, vinegar or cream of tartar (Ettlinger, 2007).  A more predictable, shelf stable acidic source was needed that could be shipped to the baker and used on demand. 


American Cookery


 

What is baking powder?  “Baking powder is a crystalline powder that combines baking soda with dry acidic ingredients that react when water is added, plus cornstarch to prevent clumping and to control the amount of gas produced per unit of baking powder”  (Joachim & Schloss, 2008).  So what are these dry acidic ingredients that made Rabbit’s cake expand beyond belief?  To answer that, we need to go back to Eben Norton Horsford, a Harvard chemistry professor from 1847 to 1863.  As with many American inventors, Horsford’s life was rather interesting.  He was formally trained as a civil engineer in his home state of New York.  He wanted to marry, but his fiancée’s father would not approve until he was more established—so he set out to Germany for further scientific study.  It was there that the fortune would change for the man who eventually authored, The Theory and Art of Bread-making, A New Process without the Use of Ferment

 

Horsford spent two years in Giessen, studying the nutritive value — including the protein content — of various grains among other topics in organic chemistry. . . . In any event, while in Germany, he was nominated for the Rumford chair at Harvard University. This academic post had been established by Count Rumford, an inventor and entrepreneur. With the strong support of Liebig and his old mentor Webster, Horsford was formally offered the professorship in February 1847, with an annual salary of $1,500 (American Chemical Society, 2007).

 

How did Eben Horsford help the plight of bakers worldwide?  What is monocalcium phosphate (MCP)?  Read Part 2 and we will wrap up this very interesting story of baking powder.  Here is a hint:


 Baking Powder

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Works Cited:

Library of Congress. (n.d.). Amelia simmons, american cookery (1796). Retrieved from http://myloc.gov/Exhibitions/books-that-shaped-america/1750-1800/ExhibitObjects/American-Cookery.aspx

Ettlinger, S. (2007). Twinkie, deconstructed, my journey to discover how the ingredients found in processed foods are grown, mined (yes, mined), and manipulated into what a. (First printing,March 2007 ed., Vol. 1, p. 136). London: Hudson st Pr.

Ibid.

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 121). Toronto: Robert Rose.

American Chemical Society. (2007). Eben horsford. Retrieved from http://acswebcontent.acs.org/landmarks/bakingpowder/horsford.html

 

Photo Credits:

Simmons, A. (1796). American cookery. (p. Cover). Hartford: Hudson & Goodwin. Retrieved from http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/treasures/images/uc006181.jpg

Rumford Baking Powder from Clabber Girl: http://www.clabbergirl.com/consumer/products/rumford/

 

Additional Resources:

Recipe for Challah Bread that shows vigorous kneading: http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/basic-challah-dough

Recipe for Sourdough that also calls for vigorous kneading: http://www.instructables.com/id/No-Sourdough-Buttermilk-Easytastybread/step3/Because-I-knead-the-dough/

Another great baking blogpost on the early uses of pearlash: http://www.fourpoundsflour.com/the-history-dish-pearlash-the-first-chemical-leavening/

Biography of the life of Count Rumford: http://acswebcontent.acs.org/landmarks/bakingpowder/count.html

 

 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Spicy Red Thai Beef Curry for a cold winter’s day

Spicy Red Thai Curry

 

Car racing, Crock-pots® & a red curry Thai recipe

 

 

red curry Thai recipe at the race


Cheating and racing go together like corruption and politics.  I would have to imagine that the first chariot race was likely the next chapter in a long tradition of one guy trying to improve his odds by some technological advantage over the other guy.  So when you are involved in an endurance race where the main rule is that the car cannot be worth more than $500—you can expect a lot of extra effort goes in behind the scenes to bend the rules in order to ensure that the car is going to run as fast as possible.  Keeping the drivers fueled is as important as keeping the car going.  Orangey string cheese in a can just is not going to cut it, for endurance racing you need Thai curry.


Thai Curry 


With all that extra effort one can get pretty hungry, so the crew has to be good with that Crock-pot® or slow cooker.  When the guys at work were running this past summer, I got invited to hang out for a weekend of heroic fixes and busted knuckles.  Since everyone loves to eat, I borrowed a slow cooker and discovered this new favorite recipe for Thai Curry.  While summer is now over, I can only imagine how much better I would love this red Thai curry on a cold winter’s day.  I followed this recipe from aTasteofThai.com  


Thai curry recipe

 

Since blogs do not convey tastes and smells you are going to have to take my word for it that this Thai curry recipe is amazing! 


Yield: 4-6 Servings  Prep time: 30 minutes to assemble  

Cook time: 5 hours to cook on high or 8 hours to cook on low

 

Here are the ingredients:

2 tablespoons tallow or lardl
2-2 1/2 lbs stew beef
2 large onions, chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1-1.75 oz box Red Curry Paste*
3 large red potatoes, cut into chunks
3 medium organic carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
3 stalks organic celery, cut into1 inch chunks
1-13.5 oz can Coconut Milk
3 tablespoons Fish Sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Optional:
Chopped peanuts and cilantro
*Red Curry Paste can be substituted with Panang or Green Curry Paste.  If using green only add 1 1/2 tablespoons curry.


Directions:

  1. In large pot, heat tallow. Add beef and brown on all sides.
  2. Add onions, garlic and sauté until soft.  Add Red Curry Paste, sauté until curry is dissolved and fragrant.
  3. Add potatoes, carrots, celery, Coconut Milk, Fish Sauce and brown sugar. Stir well and bring to a boil.
  4. Pour stew into crock pot.  Cook for 5 hours on high or 8 hours on low.  Garnish with chopped peanuts and cilantro if desired.


recipe for Thai curry

 

The recipe called for fish sauce . . . I skipped that, so your mileage may vary.  I did serve this Thai curry with the cilantro and raw peanuts over rice and it is sooooooo wonderful!  Give it a try and leave a comment as to how you liked it.  


Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Photo Credits:

All photos by Pantry Paratus

When giving thanks starts with five kernels of corn

 When Giving Thanks Starts with 5 Kernels of Corn

Forgotten First Thanksgiving History

 

Hanging Corn

 

Turkey has always been in fashion for Thanksgiving.  Along with that, add in the traditional Pilgrim buckles and Native American feather head dressings and you have a uniquely American holiday steeped in lots of tradition and even some folklore.

 

Digging a bit deeper into the first Thanksgiving story, four years before the Pilgrim’s landed at Plymouth Rock there was a large tribe of Native Americans there called the Patuxets.  All the members of this tribe, every man, woman and child, died of a mysterious plague.    Neighboring tribes had refused to come to the grounds because they were thought to be cursed.  The Divine Providence of the Pilgrims even getting to the New World is an entire story within itself, but the Pilgrims happened to land at the one part of land that was uninhabited because the previous residents had been wiped out.  I have personally lived through many New England winters along the coast, and they are predictably brutal.  This makes the resolve of the Pilgrims all the more remarkable to establish their colony within the context of religious freedom in the New World.  Of all of the times to arrive, it was in the unenviable month of December, 1620. 

 

 

By the time March arrived the Pilgrims had lost forty-seven of their original number.  They had been living primarily off of the finite amount of stored food from the ship’s galley, had depleted their supply of lemon juice, and had a building (that housed the sick) catch on fire. Lemons Moreover they did not know anything of the agriculture of America and only had English wheat and barley to attempt to cultivate come spring.  The body can only endure so much exposure to wet, cold, and lack of vitamin C for so long and it was looking like things could not get much worse.  At about this time a Native American man approached the settlement and greeted them in English.  The man’s name was Samoset and he was driven by wanderlust to come and greet the newly arrived settlers.  He was from a tribe further north.  He had learned to speak English from various fishing crews who had put in to shore near his village on the coast of Maine.  Samoset would leave and return with another Native American man named Squanto (real name was Tisquantum), “and he was to be, according to Bradford, ‘a special instrument sent of God for their good, beyond their expectation’” (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Squanto Teaching


Among many other noteworthy mentions about Squanto was the fact that he was a member of the decimated Patuxet tribe.  God had seen Squanto through a number of remarkable circumstances to prepare him to be the one person who could help the Pilgrims evade death and starvation. 

 

His story really begins in 1605, when Squanto and four other [Native Americans] were taken captive. . . . Squanto spent the next nine years in England, where he met Captain John Smith, recently of Virginia who promised to take him back to his people on Cape Cod, as soon as he himself could get a command bound for there . . . On Smith’s 1614 voyage of mapping and exploring, Squanto was returned to the Patuxets, at the place Smith named New Plymouth.  Sailing with Smith’s expedition on another ship was Captain Thomas Hunt, whom Smith ordered to stay behind . . . as soon as Smith departed, he slipped back down the coast to Plymouth, where he lured twenty Patuxets aboard, including Squanto, apparently to barter, and promptly clapped them in irons. . . . All of these he took to Malaga, a notorious slave-trading port on the coast of Spain. . . . Most of them were shipped off to North Africa, but a few were bought and rescued by local friars, who introduced them to the Christian faith.  Thus did God begin Squanto’s preparation for the role he would play in Plymouth (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Squanto did eventually make his way back to Plymouth, however when he landed (approximately six months before the Pilgrims landed) he found that his native land was devoid of his people who had been previously wiped out by a plague.  It was not until March when he met these poor, wretched, starving settlers that he knew why God had taken him on that long circuitous route back to his homeland.  Squanto first taught them how to catch eels, then taught them something far more valuable:

 

For it would save every one of their lives.  April was corn-planting month in New England, as well as Virginia.  Squanto showed the Pilgrims how to plant corn in the Indian way, hoeing six-foot squares in toward the center, putting down four or five kernels, and then fertilizing the corn with fish.  At that, the Pilgrims just shook their heads; in four months they had caught exactly one cod.  No matter, said Squanto cheerfully; in four days the creeks would be overflowing with fish. . . . Squanto helped in a thousand similar ways, teaching them how to stalk deer, plant pumpkins among the corn, refine maple syrup from maple trees, discern which herbs were good to eat and good for medicine, and find the best berries (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Native Corn

 

The agricultural knowledge of Squanto was critical to the Pilgrim’s survival.  Some have wondered what that knowledge would have developed into today had it not been for other factors in history.  But the point remains that the body of knowledge that allows humans to produce food is indispensible to our livelihoods.  Since Thanksgiving tradition centers around the bountiful meal, I thought it fitting to take a minute to think about how that food is produced and brought to market.  How long the supply chains are, possible customs or tariffs involved, what the farmer has to do just to break even or turn a profit on that crop or livestock?  Buying local is great, but producing and preserving your own food is tough to beat.  And if you think about it, the benefits to reduce the pressure on the small percentage of American farmers who produce all that food for our nation as well as other parts of the world is considerable.  More on that in later blogs, back to Thanksgiving history.

 

The Pilgrims were brimming over with gratitude—not only to Squanto and the Wampanoags who had been so friendly, but to their God.  In Him they had trusted, and He had honored their obedience beyond their dreams.  So, Governor Bradford declared a day of public Thanksgiving, to be held in October (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Wild Turkey

 

And so the first Thanksgiving was a joint feast with the Pilgrims and their new found Native American friends led by Sachem Massasoit—who brought turkeys and venison.  In November 1621, just before the onset of winter a ship dropped anchor letting off thirty-five additional settlers who did not bring any food, tools or extra clothes.  The joyous reunion was cut short. 

 

Thus, they did enter their own starving time that winter of 1621-22 (with all the extra people to feed and shelter), and were ultimately reduced to a daily ration of five kernels of corn a piece.  (Five kernels of corn—it is almost inconceivable how life could be supported on this.)  But as always, they had a choice: either to give into bitterness and despair or to go deeper into Christ.  They chose Christ, and in contrast to what happened at Jamestown, not one of them died of starvation” (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 

Empty Dish

 

In spite of one more close call with a near weather disaster during the planting and harvesting season, the Pilgrims experienced a bountiful harvest the following summer of 1622.  So great was their food surplus that they were able to trade with other northern tribes who had not reaped such an abundance.  And so came the second Thanksgiving feast with Sachem Massasoit and company—who again brought turkeys and venison.  It really makes me wonder why venison did not catch on. 

 

There was one twist to the second Thanksgiving regarding the first course that was served: “on an empty plate in front of each person were five kernels of corn . . . lest anyone should forget” (Marshall & Manuel, 1977).

 What is Thanksgiving?  It is a feast, yes.  It is American history, that is true.  But it is the realization that Providence is enough.  Thanksgiving is remembering the overabundance of  things for which we give thanks, but it is also remembering the times in which we had little, and being thankful anyway.

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 


 

Post-Script: Some critics of Peter Marshall have taken exception to his lack of pedigree for historical studies while juxtaposing that criticism next to the fact that he is a Reverend.  I personally do not put stock in the thrust of this book.  I love America dearly, but I do not see her as a “New Israel” (Here are two randomly chosen different views on that subject).   Nor am I concerned on whether the Puritan Pilgrims believed that or not, rather I am focusing in on “the starving time“, the tradition of the 5 kernels of corn, and Thanksgiving history as told through the early Pilgrim settlers on Plymouth Rock captured so well in chapter six of this book. 

 

  1. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 130). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.
  2. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 130-131). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.
  3. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 135). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.
  4. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 139). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.
  5. Marshall, P., & Manuel, D. (1977). The Light and the Glory. (p. 144). Old Tappan: Fleming H Revell Co.

 


 

Photo Credits:

Hanging Corn:  http://www.rgbstock.com/photo/nogkO8C/hanging+corn

Squanto Teaching: Bricker, Garland Armor. The Teaching of Agriculture in the High School. New York: Macmillan, 1911. Page 112.

Corn by Arvind Balaraman / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Lemons by Suat Eman / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Turkey by Arvind Balaraman / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Empty dish by chawalitpix / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Bleach, What Does it Have to Do With Flour?

Bleached flour, is that supposed to be refined?


Bleached or Unbleached flour—do I get the same results?


Bleached, Storebought Flour

 

To better understand bleached flour we would do best to get to know the gradients of flour better.  Sifting flour once makes it “clear”; sifting twice elevates it to “patent” (or “second clear”).  People want the “clearest” flour they can find.   According to Joel Salatin, all grain is actually very expensive and pretty much always has been through history before the age of cheap energy.  If something becomes hard to get, it generally becomes more valuable; and what is considered more valuable is also associated with the appearance of wealth. The fact that societies even had grain at all was a sign of relative peace (no one was raiding or burning crops) and the presence of grain was a pretty good metric for prosperity (people had time and energy to plant instead of hunting and gathering). 

 

The more flour is sifted the more “debris” is removed.  What is left is endosperm or the pure starch and small amounts of protein (think fuel) for the wheat kernel to germinate from seed to plant.  This process of discarding the roughage (the bran and germ portions of the wheat kernel) is an aberrant and abhorrent one, but has been around for centuries

 

Early millers in Europe found that by passing flour though sieves of various sizes, the grain could be separated from its refuse, which made white flours the choice of priviledged classes (hence the term “refined”) and whole-grain flours the ingredient of peasants. . . . Interestingly, when white flour production was threatened during the Second World War, the British government outlawed white bread, replacing it with a rough whole-grain bread, nicknamed “the National Loaf.”  Surprisingly, during a time of deprivation, the mean nutrition level improved, just the opposite of what would have been expected.  (Joachim & Schloss, 2008)

 WWII Rations Book


Flour without the “debris” was considered more valuable even though it is not as healthy or filling.  But to a baker, the quality of the flour is imperitive because flour “is called the ‘100 percent ingredient,’ against which all other ingredients stand in ratio” (Reinhart & Manville, 2002).  The biggest factor in determining final baked product quality is the amount of protein in the flour.  Although not exclusively gluten, for the sake of discussion we can say the “gluten content” of the flour is king. 

                   Cake Flour: 6-7% Gluten

                   Pastry Flour: 7.5-9.5% Gluten

                   All-Purpose Flour: 9.5-11.5% Gluten  *depends where it is grown and milled

                   Bread Flour: 11.5-13.5% Gluten

                   High-Gluten Flour: 13.5 to (rare but possible) 16% Gluten

                   Above chart attributed to (Reinhart & Manville, 2002)

 

Sometimes in Europe you see flour labeled as “#55” or “#65” which refers to the quality of the sifted final product which—again– will determine the outcome of the result of the baked goods.  Most of us understand that the more heavier parts of the wheat kernel can weigh the flour down, making a light, fluffy texture difficult (not impossible, difficult).   But all of that has to do with the granularity of the flour, what can we expect when we buy flour bleached?  And here is another question you may have asked, “If you buy unbleached flour you may notice that it is slightly more expensive, why is that?”  As it turns out, the color of the flour correlates with the thread count of the table cloth. 

 

The whiter the flour the more valuable it was thought to be.  If you have been following this blog, that makes about as much sense as a stripped down car selling for more than a fully loaded one, but I digress . . .   Flour when it comes out of the grain mill is naturally yellowish as it boasts of the carotene pigments in the wheat berry that also correlate to the proportion of the gluten.  Below you can see darker, hard red wheat on the left and hard white wheat on the right. 

Hard Red & Hard White Wheat Comparison

             

     

Millers and bakers knew that this process happened naturally. 

If given half a chance, though, flour bleaches itself.  That is, as it ages in contact with air, the pigments are oxidized and transformed into colorless compounds.  But aging requires storage time, and time is money.  That’s why “unbleached” —meaning naturally self-bleached during storage—flour costs more (Wolke & Parrish, 2005).

 

Historically, whole wheat flour was fermented.  Time and bacteria did the work naturally and healthfully.  But now the need was to have refined flour stripped, whitened and –by golly– this needed to be done expeditiously.  After millennia of slow, healthy, whole food, the process needed some chemical accelerants.  In 1774 a Swedish chemist named Carl Wilhelm Scheele isolated an element that was officially named Chlorine in 1810 by a British chemist named Sir Humphry Davy (Ettlinger, 2007).  This new element was later pressed into service as an artificial aging agent. 

 

Is there a measurable performance difference between bleached and unbleached flour? 


Evidently there is:

The bleaching of flour isn’t mere cosmetics.  Flour that has been matured, either by natural aging or by being treated with oxidizing agents, makes doughs that bakers report as being more elastic during kneading.  That’s because oxidation not only removes the yellow color of flour but removes certain sulfur-containing chemicals (thiols) that interfere with the formation of gluten (Wolke & Parrish, 2005).

 

The bleaching process is pretty much assumed to have happened to store bought flour unless you see it labeled specifically as “unbleached flour.”  This brings us to national security and the Department of Homeland Security’s interest in cake flour.  No, seriously.  Chlorine gas is very toxic, like banned in the Geneva Convention kind of toxic—so it has to be tightly controlled and transported in highly protected rail cars so that it does not get into the wrong hands.   A separate danger is that flour is also very fine organic particulate that can be explosive under the right conditions and concentrations. 


 Chaya recently wrote an article about the effects of chlorine in water.  If you think chlorine is benign enough to put in grandma’s cookies, think again.


And so there you have it, bleached flour was to accelerate the process that delivers us the finest of flours, cake flour.  If you are playing along with the home game here, cake flour is stripped and artificially aged (bleached flour) so that it is the least nutritious least-likely-to-be-confused-with-healthy-bread, refined flour that you can buy.    I think that I will stick with grinding my own flour in our grain mill. 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 



Chaya’s Note:  Although bakers who care more about aesthetics than health like to age their flours (or cheat and bleach them), aging your flour is a terrible idea!  The extremely digestible nutrition of whole wheat is mostly found in oils.  This even includes the iron, which oxidize with time and air exposure.  Please use your home milled flour immediately—or put the rest in the freezer.   If you want to use the oxidation process to lighten your flour, soak it in warm water before mixing in the other ingredients.  This fermenting process will give you moister, lighter bread every time in a healthy way!

If you think you need sifted, all-purpose, bleached flour to get delicious and light results, think again.  It takes practice, but you’ll get amazing artisan bread that will nourish your family by using the whole wheat! The picture below is of homemade Challah bread (traditional Jewish bread for Sabbath) using home-milled flour.

Challah Bread--with whole wheat flour

 

 


 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Photo Credits:

 Child’s Rations Book:  The National Archives UK

All other photos are property of Pantry Paratus.



Works Cited:

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 241). Toronto: Robert Rose.

Reinhart, P., & Manville, R. (2002). The bread baker\’s apprentice, mastering the art of extraordinary bread. (p. 29). Ten Speed Pr.

Ibid

Wolke, R. L., & Parrish, M. (2005). What einstein told his cook 2, the sequel : Further adventures in kitchen science. (1st ed. ed., p. 217). New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company.

Ettlinger, S. (2007). Twinkie, deconstructed, my journey to discover how the ingredients found in processed foods are grown, mined (yes, mined), and manipulated into what a. (First printing,March 2007 ed., Vol. 1, p. 22). London: Hudson st Pr.

Wolke, R. L., & Parrish, M. (2005). What einstein told his cook 2, the sequel : Further adventures in kitchen science. (1st ed. ed., p. 217). New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company.

 


UPDATE:  While doing some research on FDA regulations regarding “Whole Wheat”, I came across this regulation about the bleach content found in wheat:

Unless such addition conceals damage or inferiority or makes the whole wheat flour             appear to be better or of greater value than it is, the optional bleaching ingredient azodicarbonamide (complying with the requirements of 172.806 of this chapter, including the quantitative limit of not more than 45 parts per million) or chlorine dioxide, or chlorine, or a mixture of nitrosyl chloride and chlorine, may be added in a quantity not more than sufficient for bleaching and artificial aging effects.  

You can find this on fda.gov  with this identifying information:

 

[Code of Federal Regulations]
[Title 21, Volume 2]
[Revised as of April 1, 2012]
[CITE: 21CFR137.200]


 


 

Carrageenan, the Dark Side of Chocolate Milk

Carrageenan, the Dark Side of Chocolate Milk

 

What is carrageenan? Is there a connection between carrageenan and cancer?

 

 

You take the perfect thing like milk and you combine it with another perfect think like chocolate and what results is awesomeness by the glassful.  So why do things that we love so much have ingredients that are so hard to pronounce?  Does anyone remember their Mom adding carrageenan to their chocolate milk?

 

First of all, what is carrageenan?  It is actually in the family of gums derived from plants (which differ from gelatins, “think protein” derived from animals) which “are complex carbohydrates, long chains of sugar molecules (polysaccharides) that have the ability to absorb liquid in an amount that is many times their volume” (Joachim & Schloss, 2008).   Carrageenan is widely used as a thickening agent because it can attract water, can be ethically harvested, has excellent properties for industrial food processing plants and is pretty cheap. 


Chondrus Crispus

 

Carrageenan in food is actually not new, it has been around for hundreds of years because of where and how humans have developed it as a natural resource.  Carrageenan Moss also known as “Irish Moss” or Chondrus Crispus is a type of seaweed.  Its job in seaweed is to help hold the plant erect while yet allowing it to be flexible as it gets tossed about in the surf.  The carrageenan in plant cells improves the strength of the plant fibers without allowing it to break—think of a water bed.  As mentioned above, it is among the most ethically harvested crop produced by small aquaculture farmers because it does not require soil to be tilled or fresh water to cultivate this plant (FMC Corporation).  The Chinese have been recorded to use it as far back as 600 BC (Bechtel, 2012) and it also appears to be a long standing part of Irish culinary tradition. 

 

Modern uses for carrageenan in food includes veggie burgers, soy milk, beer, ice cream and yes, chocolate milk.  Here is why: “In industry they [gums like carrageenan] are highly valued because they have the ability to thin under pressure and then return to their original viscosity, a quality that makes them ideal for being pumped through factory pipelines without losing their thickening abilities” (Joachim & Schloss, 2008). 

 


 

 

When Scooter was a baby, he showed allergies to milk—pasteurized homogenized feed lot milk to be exact.  He was a breast fed baby so he was fine with real milk and likely would have been fine on raw milk, but we were not including that as a part of our family’s diet then.  However, he did well on soy milk, so the-ever-thrifty-Chaya decided that we could save some money if we bought a plant milk maker to make soy milk, almond milk, hazelnut milk, etc.  No matter how hard we tried or what recipe we followed, our final product never came out like the store bought stuff—why not?  It lacked the wonder additive carrageenan.   

 

If you have ever eaten sushi, then you have likely had seaweed, so what is the big deal?  It turns out that there is much discussion and some disagreement on this food additive.  It is “natural” and even has been accepted as being organic.  The disagreement surfaces around the nexus between carrageenan and cancer.  Just when you thought that there was not one more thing that could cause cancer, carrageenan gets thrown under the bus—but wait . . .

 

It turns out that carrageenan comes in three main classes (kappa, iota, and lambda) and two clear types diverge from there: degraded and undegraded.  This is where the food label conscious consumer needs to keep a sharp eye out for how the words get parsed.  The neigh-sayers for carrageenan claim that the degraded variety can cause inflammation (a red flag precursor for cancer) and has been linked to show that it causes colon cancer in lab rats.    Degraded carrageenan is basically short chain polysaccharides.  Where have we seen this before?  Corn sugar is not bad, but when you break long chain corn sugar into short chain high fructose corn syrup—all kinds of bad things happen in the body. 


Chocolate Milk

 

On the pro side of carrageenan are some heavyweights like Stoneyfield Organic, the FDA, the independent scientists of the Joint Food, the Agriculture Organization of the United Nations/World Health Organization Expert Committee on Food Additives (JECFA) and the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) (Lundgren, 2012).  The above group clearly draws the line between degraded (not used in food) and undegraded (approved for use in food) as the link between carrageenan and cancer.  The plot thickens (pun intended) . . .

 

Concerns about carrageenan have centered on the “degraded” type which is distinguished from the “undegraded” type by its lower molecular weight. Most of the studies linking carrageenan to cancer and other gastrointestinal disorders have focused on degraded carrageenan. But Dr. Tobacman thinks that undegraded carrageenan – the kind most widely used as a food additive – might also be associated with malignancies and other stomach problems. She suggests that such factors as bacterial action, stomach acid and food preparation may transform undegraded carrageenan into the more dangerous degraded type (Weil , 2002).

 

 

We have clearly made the line between degraded (clearly bad) and undegraded (bad?) carrageenan in food sources, yet that above quote seems rather indicting to carrageenan altogether.  So what else can be said about the transformation of carrageenan from undegraded to degraded inside the gut—is this possible?  Turns out that science has asked this question too, and here is a quote from Stoneyfield’s website:


Undegraded carrageenan resists degradation in the digestive tract, and is therefore unlikely to be absorbed by the intestine, according to a review of the toxicology literature on carrageenan conducted by Cohen and Ito in 2006.

“Because carrageenan is extracted from seaweeds under alkaline conditions, degradation to smaller polymerized polysaccharides is avoided. As long as the pH is maintained above 6.0, carrageenan is stable to heat processing. Once carrageenan is in the gel configuration, as is the case for its use in food systems, the carrageenan becomes highly resistant to degradation, even under more acidic conditions, such as occur in the stomach (see Section 1.2.3).” They go on to state, “Carrageenan ingested in the gel form (either as a homogenous carrageenan gel or one consisting of a carrageenan /protein gel from a meat or a dairy food) is also stable to the conditions of passage through the digestive tract (Abraham et al., 1972; Benitz et al., 1973; Arakawa et al., 1988; Weiner, 1988). Because of its large molecular weight, carrageenan remains within the lumen of the digestive tract and is not absorbed (Weiner, 1988; 1991). Thus, there are no systemic effects of carrageenan following ingestion by rats, mice, or monkeys.” [Emphasis Stoneyfield] (Lundgren, 2012).

 

It becomes much more clear now.  Milk is acidic (lactic acid) and the stomach is definitely acidic (hydrochloric acid), so the PH seems to be within tolerance and the gut will not transform the carrageenan from undegraded to degraded as was hypothesized by Dr. Tobacman.  However, there are those who are against carrageenan getting a “free pass” (Bechtel, 2012).  Juxtapose that with other supporters like the website Carageenan.info and you have another conflict of claims.  However, the science above settles it for me. 

 

So why do I personally not want to drink chocolate milk with carrageenan in it?  Let us look at these three labels for Trickling Springs Organic Chocolate Milk, Trickling Springs Natural Chocolate Milk and Nesquik respectively:


Chocolate Milk Labels

 

If you look at the Natural chocolate milk and the Nesquik® you see that they both contain carrageenan.  Hmmmmmm, and then you look at the label on the left that says the organic chocolate milk does not have carrageenan in it—wait, I thought that carrageenan was approved for organic foods? 


Here is a little secret, Trickling Springs Creamery out of Chambersburg, PA (and other responsible dairies like this) is a commercial grass fed dairy farm.  Their creamline style milk (the label on the left) is as lightly pasteurized as the law will allow and usually has a big head of cream on it, while their “natural” style milk (label in the center) is pasteurized and homogenized.  This organic grass fed milk is loaded with the fat soluble activators that makes grass fed milk nutritionally superior, thick and naturally creamy to boot.  So why do I not drink chocolate milk with carrageenan in it anymore?  Because grass fed cow’s milk does not need to be thickened—the carrageenan is unnecessary.  You can always take raw milk (where legal) and Frontier Cocoa Powder and have the best chocolate milk ever!

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria


Addendum: My whole argument above concludes that the organic milk does not need to have carrageenan in it because the milk is better off as a raw product and does not need a thickening agent.  I recently had a reader look up the Trickling Springs Creamery labels and find that the organic chocolate milk ingredients list does have carrageenan.  “Please advise” the reader wrote.  While I have had this milk and have enjoyed it, I did not notice that TSC has added carrageenan now making my above statements only true on the date that I wrote this blog one year ago.  I was glad that someone took the time to fact-check my work, but I was disappointed to find out that the organic version does include carrageenan.  I have not heard back from TSC on why this is so.  –Wilson Nov 2013


 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Photo Credits:

Chocolate Milk is from http://www.tricklingspringscreamery.com/products/milk/chocolate-milk

Chondrus Crispus is from http://www.carrageenan.info/Home.aspx

Composition photograph contains nutrition labels from Trickling Springs Creamery http://www.tricklingspringscreamery.com/products and Nesquick http://www.nesquik.com/adults/products/nesquikreadytodrink/chocolate.aspx#.  The picture of the Chondrus Crispus is from http://www.carrageenan.info/Home.aspx


 

Works Cited:

 

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 292). Toronto: Robert Rose.

 

FMC Corporation. (n.d.). Carrageenan (seaweed extract): Setting the record straight. Retrieved from http://www.carrageenan.info/ClaimsvsFacts.aspx

 

BECHTEL, J. (2012, March 17). Carrageenan: A food additive that’s not as safe as you think. Retrieved from http://blog.healthkismet.com/carrageenan-cancer-health-inflammation

 

Joachim, D., & Schloss, A. (2008). The science of good food. (p. 293). Toronto: Robert Rose.

 

Lundgren, B. (2012, June 01). The question of carrageenan safety. Retrieved from http://www.stonyfield.com/blog/2012/06/01/carrageenan-safety/

 

Weil , A. (2002, MAR 21). Can carrageenan in some soy milk cause cancer? [Web log message]. Retrieved from http://www.drweil.com/drw/u/id/QAA44833

 

Lundgren, B. (2012, June 01). The question of carrageenan safety. Retrieved from http://www.stonyfield.com/blog/2012/06/01/carrageenan-safety/

BECHTEL, J. (2012, March 17). Carrageenan: A food additive that’s not as safe as you think. Retrieved from http://blog.healthkismet.com/carrageenan-cancer-health-inflammation 

 

Pre-storm shopping list, finding items often overlooked at the store

Pre-storm Shopping List

Some of the items often overlooked you do not have to refrigerate– and other useful supplies

 

Look for nature to flex its muscles from time to time.  This past week was such an event when Hurricane Sandy hit the Eastern Seaboard of the US.  When this happens, the topic of a pre-storm shopping list is on just about everyone’s mind.  Generally there is a clamoring for bottled water, toilet paper and flash lights as can be evidenced by these photos below:

 

Bottled Water

 

Toilet Paper

 

Flashlights

 

While people may not realize the limitations of a “just in time” delivery system in their store from day to day, everyone generally understands what a storm means to any distribution system—no trucks equals no stuff on the shelves.  On a normal day, if you pick up the last jar of apple sauce the truck is probably just rolling to a stop behind the store with more…it is literally “just in time.” What you see is the entire stock of apple sauce that store has to sell.  That being said, the typical store’s supply of food is measured in days.  During the few days before a storm hits, people tend to be much keener on the next few days’ or even a week’s food supply.  The industry calculates this resupply rate on the current American habit to shop every few days.

 

 


 Note:  We hope that these pictures encourage you to start your preparations now, with no looming emergency.  I am not suggesting that the items below are ideal, only that they are functional in an emergency and may still be on the shelf as these items tend to be overlooked.

 


 

I had a friend living near DC go to America’s favorite place to shop on a photo mission for me on Monday morning (the day the storm hit) looking for items often overlooked in a hurried shopping trip before bad weather.   Some of them may surprise you:

 

Bleach: Not to eat, but if you had to purify water in the absence of a Berkey Water filter, then you could add some bleach to the water to chemically purify it.  This will not help the taste one bit if you are getting water from say a bath tub, but it will make it so that it will not hurt you.  About half a cap full to a cap full per gallon should make the water potable.   Additional time to let that chlorine evaporate will help some . . . but it is still going to taste horrible. 

 

Bleach

 

Canning supplies: Not that your pre-storm shopping list is going to include canning supplies, it just made me sad to see this picture of old school technology just sitting there unused when those jars could be holding perfectly good food from a garden or farmer’s market up on someone’s shelf making them very prepared indeed.

 

canning supplies

 

Chocolate: It should rightfully be its own food group, I agree.  However this treat eaten in moderation any other day can actually keep for a long time without refrigeration.   Be sure to check the ingredients label, not all chocolates are equal.

 

chocolate

 

Fig Newtons: We are talking about food to keep you alive that does not need to be refrigerated right?  Fig newtons in my opinion are barely on the healthy side of empty calories.  Actually their only redeeming quality are the figs inside.  The ingredient list should clue you in: UNBLEACHED ENRICHED FLOUR, FIGS, HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP, CORN SYRUP, SUGAR, SOYBEAN OIL . . .

 

fig newtons

 

Fresh produce: I am already in the habit of dehydrating food routinely in our house with my trusty Excalibur dehydrator.  Dehydrating fresh produce will preserve it long term if done before the power goes out ahead of time.  Even if you did not, the produce can last on the counter top unrefrigerated—how would I know that?  Produce shipped to the store has been selected to look nice, not taste nice so it has to last a long time.

 

fresh produce

 

Honey: These wonderful calories from nature with built in immune system boosters should make their way into the shopping basket for this storm anyway.  If you are not typically a honey consumer, do not worry– the honey will still be good for the next storm.  It will last a long time just the way the bees make it.

 

honey

 

Pet food: Not for you to eat, but do not forget that your pets need to eat even during a storm or bad weather situation.  There was still plenty of pet food on the shelf the day the storm hit. 

 

pet food

 

Protein powder: Not in any way good for you as a daily part of your diet.  In fact Sally Fallon Morell spoke to us about the evils of protein powder in a podcast recently.   However, you are looking at hundreds of thousands of calories sitting right here in a very stable manner on this shelf.  Definitely not something you want to try out in big quantities if your system is not used to it, but it will provide a lot of calories in a small quantity and it will get you through the storm and its aftermath.

 

protein powder

 

Soap: So the store’s stock of toilet paper ran out?  Well, Plan B may be as simple as soap-lots of it.  Besides, you will likely have plenty of cleaning up to do.  But since toilet paper is a nonperishable anyway, go ahead and stock up pre-storm!

 

Soap

 

sponges

 

Vitamins: Can keep you healthy when you are under stress—still plenty of them here on the shelf. We tend to gravitate towards the more natural items in this section, like essential oils.  Try lavender and chamomile for stress!

 

vitamins

 

 

Non-Food stuff items often overlooked:

 

Duct tape: While the normal duct tape was likely out, this still qualifies in the academic definition of duct tape.  It would have to be the end of the world as I knew it to use this particular duct tape pictured here, but in an emergency it will certainly do the job no matter how many cool points a guy would lose with his buddies afterwards.

 

duct tape, sort of

 

Hand tools: Not very yummy, but something that may help you pick up the pieces or secure items before the wind takes them away.  Power tools need power by necessity, so have some good hand tools on stand by.

 

Hand tools

 

Hand tools 2

 

 

Here are a few other items that I thought of that were not captured in photos:

 

Eggs: In Europe it is not unusual to see eggs sitting on a store aisle’s end cap like you would find Fig Newtons when the go on sale.  That is because this great source of protein will last for up to a week when fresh even in warmer weather, they will also be fine on your counter for a few days—especially if you coat them in oil (thanks facebook follower for the tip!).  You can always test them in a glass of water.  If they float, they have already desiccated and the air bubble inside is an indicator that they are not good anymore. 

 

Hard Cheeses and salt cured meat: Before the days of refrigeration, people actually did not starve.  Hard cheeses (dipped in wax) will be fine on the counter as well as summer sausage or pepperoni sticks.  You will be surprised at how many people overlook these on their way to clamor over the last value added can of nasty ravioli in orange sauce.

 

Devotional candles: These are often found in the ethnic aisle of the grocery store.  They are inexpensive and burn for a long time.  While you are there, pick up a bulk bag of rice, beans and/or lentils.  Also, if you cannot find matches by the part of the store that sells candles, check the area by the barbeque grills or the camping section.  A multi-pack of lighters is “cheap insurance” as my Dad used to say.

 

This empty spot on the rack was for hand cranked can openers . . . you would be surprised how many people buy long term storage food by the pallet and do not have adequate non-electric can openers! 

 

can openers

 

Everyone has some kind of pre-storm shopping list to fill albeit on paper or in their mind.  Storms and bad weather mean that you are going to likely experience a disruption of supply or at least access to a store.  Stocking up before hand is the way to stay out of the stressful shopping experiences as limited resources are bought up.  These items often overlooked are worth while to keep in your mind next time you are preparing for the next storm.

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

Storm Preparation

 

 

Check out our other great blogs, many emphasize being ready for anything!  Here is one on creating a “bug out bag“.

 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Photo Credits:

All photos by Pantry Paratus

 

Works cited:

Fig newton ingredient list is taken from Nabisco’s website: http://www.nabiscoworld.com/Brands/ProductInformation.aspx?BrandKey=newtons&Site=1&Product=4400002244

Wilson’s Book Review: The Backyard Homestead

Wilson’s Book Review: The Backyard Homestead

 

Carleen Madigan writes on everything from chickens to gardening

 

Chaya actually read this book first and had always recommended it to customers at various expos that we have been to across our great nation.  So on a particularly rainy afternoon I found myself not being able to put this book down as Carleen Madigan covered just about every major topic involved with running a homestead. 


The Backyard Homestead

 

Written in 2009, this book is the real deal, a contemporary classic in my opinion.  If I may respectfully do so, I would liken it to a modern digest of Carla Emery’s quitessential classic The Encyclopedia of Country Living.  Yes, it is that good.  When people talk about a homestead they normally are talking about food production—and this book does not disappoint! 

 

Navigating the book is a cinch.  You probably will find it largely intuitive as I did, and you will likely be dreaming about your own homestead.  You start off in chapter one talking about gardening; naturally when people think about producing food they think gardening.  Chapter two is fruits and nuts, then you are onto herbs, grains, then all things poultry, meat & dairy, and capped off with foraging food from the wild.  Just about anyone can start here and enjoy a large measure of success; the book is sprinkled with pictures, recipes, shortcuts, advice on pitfalls and plenty of straight common sense.

 

Carleen Madigan


The book is not technical like Carla Emery’s, you are not going to find half a dozen recipes for duck liver, the best cross cut saw for woodland chores or advice on calving—but what you will find is that in one long afternoon The Backyard Homestead will take you through all the topics you wanted to know about, but did not want to drill through hours of web searches. 

 

Whether you’re starting off with an acre or two or just an apartment with a small patio, there’s something you can do to provide some of your own food (Madigan, 2009).


 

 

 

From chickens to chutney, I am blown away with how much I walked away with and was able to retain from this book.  And you do not have to be a large land owner to make use of this book.  Page 10 walks you through considerations before you start a homestead, but by page 13 you are already getting plot designs from a professional (utilizing great artwork I might add) on how to set up 1/10 th of an acre for viable food production! 

 

If you’re deep into gardening and self-sufficiency, sooner or later you’ll want to try growing your own wheat, if only to get yourself away from the commercial process that grows a perfectly good grain, scrapes off the bran, peels out the germ, and bleaches the flour, and then sells all those things back to you separately (Madigan, 2009).

 

Chaya could have made that quote—I love this book.  The chapter of the book that deals with grains is both amazingly complete and concise which is actually characteristic of the whole book itself.  I highlight the grains part because we deal so much with bread baking in our house and with Pantry Paratus.  Taken as a whole I am thoroughly pleased that she starts at the precept of grinding your own flour before she mentions baking bread.  Truthfully, whether or not you plan on brewing your own beer (yes, she covers that too) the fact that you can grow the grain that you use to bake your bread is a heroic concept on the order of Jackie Clay. 


Bread

 

Since the rest of us likely did not grow up on working farms or with family members close to us to pass along all of this knowledge to us, we find ourselves at an informational disadvantage.  If that is you and you dream of a homestead where you grow more than just grass, then you need The Backyard Homestead on your shelf. 

 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

Works Cited:

Madigan, M. (2009). The backyard homestead. (p. 10). North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing.

Ibid (p. 186)

 

 

Fish Stock, yep it is time to try it for myself

Fish Stock

 

Wilson explains this fish stock recipe

 

fish stock

 


There may be a line to my thriftiness, like trying to recycle my own paper—I think that I will just leave that to the pros.  However, as it turns out a lot of our ancestors really got along great with a lot less food waste (and nearly zero processed food) by using all of the animal or plant they were eating.  “So, how do you make fish stock?”  If you were to have asked me that ten years ago, I surely would have quipped with, “Why would you ever want to make fish stock?”

 

While there are detractors from the science of what Round Up® (glyphosphate) will or will not kill (albeit ever so slowly perhaps), one thing it is pressed into service to combat with great regularity are dandelions.  These bright yellow reminders that nature is still pretty wild were actually harvested for food and wine production by my Italian ancestors. 


fish heads

 


So when I learned that fish stock was really good for you and that it was made from the parts of the fish being thrown away after the filets were cut, I had to try it at least once.  With all of the places that I could have turned to for a recipe for fish stock, I settled on two particular tried and trusted people.  One was our buddy Ann Marie from CheeseSlave.com the other was a well worn copy of Nourishing Traditions by Sally Fallon Morell.    

 

In Europe . . . the fish monger skins and filets the fish for you, giving you the filets of your evening meal and the bones for making the stock and final sauce.  Unfortunately, in America sole arrives at the fish market preboned.  But snapper, rock fish and other non-oily fish work equally well; and a good fish merchant will save the carcasses for you if you ask him. . . . Be sure to take the heads as well as the body—these are especially rich in iodine and fat-solulble vitamins” (Fallon & Enig, 1999)

 

Now I knew that Sally wrote extensively about soup stocks and fish stocks in particular, but I had not actually searched Ann Marie’s CheeseSlave website and I was pleasantly surprised to find this simple recipe.  Below is my attempt at trying to recreate her fish stock recipe:

 

Ingredients

Onion, yellow or white, organic if possible (1)
Whole fresh, non-oily fish with the bones and fish heads and trimmings — cod, sole, halibut, haddock, whiting, halibut, flounder or snapper (2 pounds)
Parsley stems — not the leaves (6-8)
Lemon juice (1 tsp)
Sea salt (1/4 teaspoon)
Dry white wine (1 cup)
Enough filtered water to cover the ingredients by an inch
Optional: 1/4 cup fresh mushroom stems

 

Cut up the onion into rough chunks and put them in the stock pot.  For even more flavor and body in your stock, I would recommend just cutting the onions skins and all.  These onions had some mold under the surface, so I skinned them. 

 

roughly chop onions


Divide the parsley stems and put them in the stock pot.  I saved my tops for cooking later in the week.


separate parsley from stem

 

Measure the other ingredients and add them to the stock pot.


measure the ingredients

 


Wash the blood off of the carcass as much as possible, and add that to the stock pot.  I did not use the skins (although I hear that you can do so).


 

wash the blood off of the fish carcass



Be sure to remove the gills from the fish head, as this may bring a bitter flavor to your final product.  This guy makes me nervous while using the knife, but this is a good demonstration:

 

 


Remove Gills from Fish — powered by ehow

 


Cover everything with water, about an inch should do nicely.


place carcase in pot

 

Bring to a boil.  You will notice some scum on the surface—skim this off as much as you can (it need not be perfect).


skim off the scum

 

Reduce to a simmer for 4-24 hours depending on what you want it to look like.


final product

 

Strain the broth and the final product should look like this:


Strain


completed fish stock

 

Divide it up into small containers to freeze it or Ann Marie has a great tip at using a (specially purposed) ice cube tray to have smaller portions at the ready for soups and such. 

 

I know fish stock seems really gross to the American palate, but actually it is surprisingly tastey when you use it to make rice or soup.  Leave a comment, let me know what you think!

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria 

 

 

Proviso:

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Works Cited:

Fallon, S., & Enig, M. G. (1999). Nourishing traditions, the cookbook that challenges politically correct nutrition and the diet dictocrats. (p. 119). New Trends Publishing.


Photo Credits:

All photos by Pantry Paratus


Recipe for Striped Bass or Rockfish

Recipe for Striped Bass

A day out angling in the Chesapeake, the kind of phone call you have always wanted to get

 

Fried striped bass

 

While passing through DC recently for business, I get a phone call from an old Army buddy who wanted to know if I was interested in going angling in the Chesapeake for striped bass or rockfish.  It was the kind of phone call you always want to get, but let’s face it, how often does that really happen? 

 

Wilson holding the Striped Bass

 

Early on a Saturday with the last few of those precious sunny, clear, t-shirt days left in the fall we set out on a charter fishing trip for stripped bass or rockfish.  Not being from the Chesapeake area, I have to say that I never ate this fish before—but you know what they say about the worst day fishing . . .

 

As it turns out the fish is a firm white meat that cooks up tender and delicious—definitely worth the early wake up and Dramamine®.  Now down to the serious business of eating the catch.  First is the Filleting process which is deftly handled here in this video by first mate Steve (who shockingly only works for tips).

 

 

 

 

For the next part, I called the one expert I know on how to cook these beautiful fish, my Mommy-in-law.  Normally recipes in the Midwest list “half an egg shell” as a legitimate unit of measurement—no, I am not kidding you on that.  Below are the tried and true steps to genuine Midwest cuisine (using approximations for measurements):

 

Ingredients:

Four fillets of striped bass or rockfish

2 cups corn meal

3 eggs

Half cup of whole milk (raw milk is best where ever it may still be legal)

1 Tablespoon of Old Bay® seasoning

Salt and pepper to taste

2/3 cup of lard in a cast iron skillet

 

Steps:

Melt the lard in the cast iron skillet, other industrial seed oils may work as well here, I cannot say since we do not use them

 

melt lard

 

Beat eggs and milk together, set aside

 

eggs and milk

 

If you are making your own corn meal with a grain mill (gold foilie star for you) then start there, if using bagged meal (recommend stone ground corn meal) add 2 cups to a flat baking dish

 

Stir salt, pepper and Old Bay® into corn meal to create a breading mixture

 

salt, pepper, corn meal and Old Bay

 

Rinse off any blood from fillets and pat fillets dry with a paper towel

 

cut striped bass fillets

Dip fillets (TIp: I found that half fillets were more manageable than whole fillets) into egg then into corn meal.

 

dip fillets in egg batter

 

dip fillets in corn meal

 

Optional: for that real Midwest breading, double dip the fillet back into the egg and then the corn meal

 

double dip in egg batter

 

Place fillet in hot grease, cook until brown, then flip  (add grease if needed)

 

place fillet in hot grease

 

Place fillet on paper towel in a dish

 

Serve with favorite sides

 

Fried striped bass

 

 

That is it.  This is a time tested recipe, and I am sure that there are more complicated variants, but by applying Occam’s Razor I am to the table enjoying my catch quickly.  Let me know if you get to try this delicacy, just leave a comment below. 

 

Wilson

 

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Proviso:

 

Nothing in this blog constitutes medical advice.  You should consult your own physician before making any dietary changes.  Statements in this blog may or may not be congruent with current USDA or FDA guidance.

 

Photo Credits:

All Photos by Pantry Paratus

 

 

Wilson’s book review: America’s Test Kitchen Cookbook

America’s Test Kitchen Cookbook

 

. . . because everything does not come out perfectly in your kitchen either!

 


After a few years of marriage now, Chaya has convinced me not to experiment on recipes with our dinner guests.  So, if you do ever find yourself over for dinner at our house, rest assured we will serve a solid family dinner success—and no, I will not chronicle the mishaps.  Because not everything comes out correctly in anyone’s kitchen, the good people over at America’s Test Kitchen have come out with a great resource for cooking and the why something works or does not work. 

 

The cookbook is a candid look at a candid operation we know as Americas Test Kitchen TV.  I offer this quote from Christopher Kimball,


But, unlike much of what is on television today, this is not a performance.  The cameras give you an honest, if slightly more lively, view of how we work in our test kitchen.  The set that you see on the show is, in fact, a real working kitchen.  This is where we live Monday through Friday, developing recipes for Cook’s Illustrated magazine (Kimball, 2001).

 


America’s Test Kitchen



Chaya and I had America’s Test Kitchen Cookbook recommended  to us by our guest on our next podcast this Friday, Brie Aronson, farm cook for the legendary Polyface Farms and we had to check it out.  Turns out that even the pros do not get it right every time. That is very comforting, because we do not either. 

 

But we try and try again.  With a little help from science and a dose of experience, we can progress and know where and why our process broke down.  The ability to troubleshoot your own results is truly a high level of the learning process.  Best path to success with meatballs, mashed potatoes or marriage is to never stop being curious—what worked, what did not work, how can I improve that? 

 

It may be possible that you are not the world’s best mashed potato maker, but you want to be.  What makes for a good batch of lick-the-bowl-clean mashed potatoes?  Is it the bowl, the butter, the salt—what?  Now I know, because after dozens of batches of mashed potatoes the folks over at the America’s Test Kitchen recipe repository now have given away not only the secret sauce but the science behind the best mashed potatoes.  If you like food science as much as I do, then you will geek out on this video:

 

 

 

It is great when something works, but even better is knowing why it works so that you can fix something that goes wrong.  Did you happen to catch the discussion about which flours are best for different purposes at about the :36 minute mark?  Hint: If you want the best protein and most nutritious flour, then you are going to have to grind your own

 

For the best results without guess work, years of experience, a dose of science and the benefit of other people trying 9 blenders to see which one is the best for your money in order for your tomato bisque soup to come out like a winner, then I recommend the Americas Test Kitchen Cookbook


Science-heavy or not, there are parts of the book that are simply not for us such as Coca-Cola© Ham (p. 204-205).  But I found the blind butter taste test (and which brands had more butter fat) to be fascinating (p. 221-222).  Your mileage may vary . . .

 

Check your local library to see if they have a copy or pick up your own, I am pretty sure that you will be perfecting your own version of the America’s Test Kitchen recipes in no time.  From the best corkscrew, to mouth watering fried chicken to the proper method for packing brown sugar—my inner food science geek recommends the America’s Test Kitchen Cookbook

 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

Works Cited:

Kimball, C. (2001). America’s Test Kitchen Cookbook. (p. ix). Brookline: Boston Common Press.


Photo Credits:

Book cover photo is from America’s Test Kitchen:  http://www.americastestkitchen.com/

 

 

Bacon Wrapped Dates

Bacon Wrapped Dates

 

Bacon Wrapped Dates

 

Hard to believe they taste this good and are that easy to make!



Okay, so we have all done it before.  You show up at a late summer picnic, church potluck or party of some kind with the least popular side dish as evidenced by how much you had to cart home.  Let us be honest, there is only so much Jello-fruit salad you care to eat one week later.  These bacon wrapped dates are sure to be a crowd pleaser!

 

Dates wrapped in bacon, so simple yet so yummy!  Hat tip to our buddy Ann Marie over at Cheeseslave for the scoop on this new easy favorite:

 

bacon wrapped dates recipe


Ingredients:

Your quantities are approximate, so depending on how thickly your bacon is sliced you will need approximately 3 dozen dates (check your local ethnic grocery store), 1 lb of bacon (nitrate free if you can find it), and about 3 dozen toothpicks.


 

dates wrapped in bacon


1. Soak your toothpicks in water.

2. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.

3. Start out with half slices of bacon.

4. I used already-pitted dates, but if you have to pit the dates yourself please be careful. 

5. Take an individual date and wrap it with a half a slice of raw bacon. I had the best luck with toothpicks to hold the form together.

6. Place the dates wrapped in bacon in a cast iron skillet or baking dish suitable for the job.

7. Bake for 15-20 minutes.   When the bacon is done to your satisfaction—you are done!

Quick Tip: the tighter the bacon wrapped dates are packed together, the longer you will have to bake them to get that perfect crispness.

8. Remove from oven and place in a serving dish.


recipe for bacon wrapped dates

 

 

Give this easy recipe for bacon wrapped dates a try and leave a comment to let us know what you thought—you too may just develop a new favorite!  Or, take it up a notch with bacon wrapped dates with almonds! 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria


mmmmmm


Photo Credits:

All photos by Pantry Paratus

 This blog is linked to Real Food Wednesday with Kelly the Kitchen Kop!

Nonperishable Food Report Card

 

nonperishable

 

 

Nonperishable Food Report Card

 

It may be on sale and it may be shelf stable, but do I want it on my table?

 

 

Full disclosure upfront here, these grades are subjective.  You can probably call this the “Wilson Squeamish Index,” but at least let me tell you why.  I wanted to look at some foods that fall into the “buy and forget” nonperishable category for food storage.  If you get a great sale on Rice-A-Roni®, should you stock up?   

 

It depends if you are a label reader or not.  I picked about twenty typical nonperishable foods to do a label scan and see if they are good to eat keep.  Some of the results just may surprise you!  You will see my annotated photos below showing the particular ingredients that weight the particular grade for that shelf stable food item.

 

In alphabetical order:


canned pears in syrup


1. Canned pears in syrup: B 


Now I am a big fan of pears, but the syrup part worries me.  What kind of syrup you ask?  Corn syrup–not good.  Otherwise these would be great! 

   

Canned Soup

 

2. Canned Soup: C-


Originally, this one shocked me.  Chaya and I subsided during our early marriage on canned soup, but here you see the whole bottom half of this shelf stable classic is not good.  Moreover, my grandmother’s chicken noodle soup was awesome sans MSG thank you very much. 


Canned Tuna


3. Canned Tuna: B+


Tuna is a great protein source.  Take out the Pyrophosphate (it keeps the flesh of the fish firm and moist) and the BPA lined can and this would a sold A for me. 


Cheez It


4. Cheez It®: C+


Surprising not as bad as you may think for a snack food.  Can you live off them?  No.  My concerns here are the Soy and Palm Oils, the TBHQ and the Soy Lecithin.  Note: on none of these foods am I even touching the enriched flour factor in the rating. 


chocolate


5. Chocolate: B


This may surprise some of you, but if you take out the PGPR, I would rate this a solid A.  PGPR was put into chocolate because it is cheaper alternative to cocoa butter–which is actually good for you.  Find chocolate without PGPR and that is a keeper.


cocoa powder


6. Cocoa Powder: A


Most one ingredient foods score very highly with me.  Who would think of entering an emergency situation without cocoa?  Take this out of the plastic package and put into a glass jar and you have a solid A+ by Wilson’s reckoning. 


honey


7. Honey: A-


Honey gets nature’s perfect single ingredient, shelf stable food award.  If you were to take this out of the plastic jar it would be an A.  Buy it from a local producer A+.  Harvest your own honey . . . move to the head of the class!  Oh, and if it crystallizes, do not panic.  You would be surprised how much of a discount you can get on crystallized honey!  Simply warm up the part you need and it will go back into the liquid solution state you know and love. 


Hungry Jack Instant Potatoes


8. Instant Potatoes: C-


The only reason why this is even in the C range is because it contains potatoes.  I highlighted the whole label as one big “not on my shelf” concern. 


Cornbread Mix



9. Cornbread Mix: B


I love cornbread!  And the best cornbread is made with lard.  However, if you see “hydrogenated” anything–pass on it. 


Macaroni and Cheese



10. Macaroni and Cheese: C


The label was “okay” until I got down to the bottom.  Things with Yellow 5, Yellow 6 or Red 40 never make it to the shopping cart for us.  A C may be generous here.  I am not a pasta hater, so if you really want good Mac ‘n’ Cheese that is nutrient dense try this recipe.


Matzoh Crackers


11. Matzoh Crackers: A-

Well you may not have them on your shelf, but we grew up eating them.  If they used olive oil instead of Canola, this would be an A for sure.  Plain matzoh crackers are tough to beat.


Oils


12. Oils: C-

Not all oil is created equal.  No, but vegetable oil (read: “[GMO] Soy”) and [GMO] corn oil are your not-good-for-you subjects of the Farm Bill.  Olive oil or Coconut oil will do just about anything that you need in the kitchen all the while supplying Omega 3’s. 


Peanuts


13. Peanuts: C-

Cornstarch, MSG, Torula yeast–really?  I love peanuts in the shell, but I will pass on these thanks!


Powdered Milk


14. Powdered Milk: B+

There are not any sources to put raw milk on a shelf, which is what makes it so nutritionally potent.  When you put it through high heat, you kill off the stuff that boosts your immune system.  Failing having a dairy animal “on tap,”  instant nonfat milk is not a terrible shelf stable food. 


Ramen


15. Ramen Noodles: F

That is not a trick of the eye.  Both of those ingredient lists are highlighted because they are both terrible!  One is for the noodles and one is for the powder–not only do they have MSG, but space wise they are mostly air!  Solid F!



Rice


16. Rice : A-

It is hard to improve on rice.  Not all rice is grown equally or ethically–so do your homework.  However, for a filling side dish, it is tough to beat.  Plus, it is half of rice and beans, or if you prefer beans and rice.  Brown rice is better for you, but because it has more oils in it, the rice will go rancid more quicly. 


Rice A Roni


17. Rice-A-Roni®: C-

Take a great food like rice and add hydrolyzed anything, MSG, autolyzed yeast (MSG lite), blah, blah, blah and the score plummets. 


Spam


18. Spam®: B-

What, Spam® gets a B-?  Yes, it is actually not made from the parts of the pig that are rejected for dog food, rather it is all shoulder meat (citing the Spam® museum here).  It would rate higher if not for the “modified” potato starch and of course, what shelf stable meat would be possible without sodium nitrate?  Take those away, and Spam would be an item on my shelf. 


Stove Top


19. Stuffing in a box: D+

I am not grooving on Stove Top because of the High Fructose Corn Syrup, the “hydrogenated” word again, MSG (seems to be a theme here) and BHA and BHT for good measure.  *sigh*  Stuffing can be so good, so meaty, so uncomplicated–but it cannot be “tasty” shelf stable food–therefore it has to be loaded up with all of the other junk.   Try asking your Grandmother for her recipe, I bet she makes the good stuff!


Triscuit


20. Triscuit: A

Surprisingly simple ingredient list.  Actually, Chaya makes a great version of these at our house.  Avoid the flavored ones, they typically have “flavor enhancers” (aka: MSG or its knock offs) in them. 


Wheat Pasta


21. Whole Grain Pasta: A-

Not the do-it-yourself kind with real whole wheat, but not terrible for processed food either.  Not all pasta is equal, but this is pretty good. 


Now the quintessential post-nuclear war nonperishable food award goes to the Twinkie®.  If you are into Twinkies®, I would highly recommend reading a great book by Steve Ettlinger, Twinkie, Deconstructed.  It will make you laugh because it is funny and it will probably make you sick to think that you ever ate one at all. 






I randomly picked out the above list in a recent trip to the grocery store.  Your mileage may vary on your nonperishable choices, but please read the label when making your purchase.  What good is it to live through the Mayan calendar ending, EMP, Zombie Apocolypse Trifecta only to suffer from poor nutrition?  Recently a friend of ours (who grew up Mennonite) relayed how she never knew anyone with cancer from her community–until the processed foods started to encroach in on them.  I am not advocating a diet of twigs and grass, but there is a large measure of health to be had by sticking to simple ingredients.  Sure, you are bound to get lots of advice on nonperishable this-or-that for emergencies, but hold the MSG and the stuff you cannot pronounce. 


Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria


Photo Credits:

All Photos by Pantry Paratus

 

Additional reading:

http://www.twinkiesproject.com/  Lots of funny experiments done with this snack cake. 


Going from the can to the bag, a nerd’s eye view of bulk beans

bulk beans

 

 

Going from the can to the bag, the beauty of bulk beans

Score is: Bag 4161 – Can 915

 

 

Okay, so you are looking to put some food away or you just want to stock up to minimize trips for staple items—either way what does it cost to put food away?  The best advice (and I get this on good authority) is to buy in bulk.  Alright, but how does the cost savings stack up for say, bulk beans? 

 

Beans, you probably either love them or hate them.  Me, I love them, especially with cornbread in a cast iron skillet.  Beans bulk, beans canned, beans bagged—what is the real cost and how do you measure that?  These are much better questions if you are looking to buy a lot of them. 

 

beans in a can

 

beans in a bag

 

This is a side by side comparison of two containers of beans from our local grocery store.  They are both Goya® brand (to isolate as many variables as possible), the first one is a 15 oz can that cost $1.59 and the other is a 16 oz bag that cost $2.09.  Now doing a cost per unit of weight comparison you can see that the can already looks like a better value: Can: $0.106 per oz,  Bag: $ 0.130625 per oz.

 

 

 Cost per bean

 

 

Wait a minute . . . when I shake the can I can hear it slosh, where the bag clearly rattles.  Hmmmm, could I be paying for water?  Actually, yes you can—it is called a “value added” product.  Here is how it breaks down, Goya® knows that to take a hard bean and make it a soft palatable bean takes time and heat energy.  So, they figure that you are into soft beans and not hard beans when you are in a hurry.  So, the already cooked variety (in a can) comes with water weight.  Since to buy beans in bulk by the barrel is not practical, smaller consumer cans are what grocery stores typically carry. 

 

To get a true apples to apples (or beans to beans if you will) comparison you would have to count the number of beans.  Unless you have a lot of time on your hands, an accurate scale and algebra are your friends here.  I got the following count for the number of beans in each container: Bag 4161, Can 915.

 

Score is Bag 4161 - Can 915

 

Woooah, that is quite a difference.  Clearly the (16 oz by weight dry) bag is a better choice than the can—but what is the cost per bean?  Cost per bean in the bag: $0.0005, cost per bean in the can: $0.0017.  Okay, so this beans in bulk comparison is probably not going to break your piggy bank.  Taking this further, if you buy bulk beans in say a 5 or 25 pound bag you are realizing some true savings here when you apply the math for value added vs non-value added packaging. 

 

I hope that you found this helpful.    Bulk beans are a great bargain and you can put away some good protein for not a whole lot of cost involved.  Just take some extra time and prepare those bulk beans yourself before you are ready to use them and save that money for something else—like a pressure cooker. 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria

 

 

 

Guest Blog Post and Book Review for Just in Case

Just In Case

Guest blog by Mark Smith

 Just In Case

 


 

Book Review: Just In Case: How to be self-sufficient when the unexpected happens by Kathy Harrison

 

Released in 2008 this book opens with a very plausible scenario told from the perspective of two different families.  One family had little preparedness planning while the other lives a prepping lifestyle—by that we mean they increased the quantity and quality of their options. The differences in their reactions and outcomes are telling.  I found it to be a very interesting and realistic assessment of the fictional families.

 

Kathy Harrison uses a simple but very effective method of handling preparedness. She calls it the O.A.R. system which stands for Organize, Arrange and Rotate. It is described in detail and I found it to be a very user friendly method that I personally recommend to my clients. She goes on through the book’s 230 pages talking about what to do in case of disasters as well as how to go about setting up your home and family to deal with disasters before they happen just in case of . . . well, almost anything.  It is done in a matter of fact, been-there-done-that fashion.


Just In Case Coupon Code

 

The book contains a wide assortment of personal anecdotes that were both helpful and revealing. She does not talk down to the reader which I found refreshing in comparison other books on the market.  Also, within its pages were a number of useful recipes using both stored foods as well as cooking from scratch. She discusses how to home can your food and she does it in such a way that a novice canner would feel comfortable.

 

The book is well populated with clean illustrations.  This helps any reader through the process that she has detailed.  Another helpful feature in the book is the number of short checklists that can help focus the effort of those preparing for any disaster: tornado, snow storm, power outage, etc.

 

Given that the book came out four years ago, it really put Kathy ahead of many in those who have written on preparedness. In short, I highly recommend that you add Just In Case to your preparedness library.

 

Mark Smith

Southern Plains Consulting

 

Southern Plains Consulting



Quick note from Wilson: One of our favorite publishers is Storey Publishing and we have done book reviews on other titles before.  However, today we get to hear from our friend Mark Smith, who is a real live preparedness consultant for hire (you may remember him from Podcast Episode 002).  I met Mark Smith at the Dallas Self Reliance Expo this past winter.  This book comes with both Mark Smith’s and James Wesley, Rawles’ endorsement—good enough for me.  We sell this book because it fits into the primer category (you may not know where to start and do not presently nor ever intend to live in a bunker).  If you want to hear more from Mark Smith, check out his website or his own new ebook (only $4.99).



 

Cornbread in a Cast Iron Skillet

Cornbread

 

 

Cast Iron Cornbread

 

 

Our favoritie way to make Cornbread

 

 

Cast Iron, such a timeless kitchen implement.  Scrambled eggs & bacon, fried catfish, pancakes, there is just something about cast iron cornbread that makes it one of life’s simple pleasures with any hardy meal.  

 

 

 

Check out our new favorite recipe modified from Ree’s original post over at the Pioneer Woman.   Cornbread in a cast iron skillet can make an ordinary pot of beans, well, extraordinary.  Serve it with honey as a great breakfast option on the go or just serve it along chicken fried steak for a tough-to-beat crowd pleaser.

 

Here is Ree’s original recipe.  I modified ours by substituting real lard for shortening and home ground flour for all-purpose flour.  In fact, milling regular popcorn for the cornmeal will give you very moist bread!  Feel free to use raw milk (where legal) and my favorite pasture raised eggs in place of their store bought replicas. 

 

Cornbread Ingredients

 

Cast Iron Cornbread Recipe Ingredients:

  • 1/4 cup Plus 2 Tablespoons Lard
  • 1 cup Yellow Corn Meal
  • 1/2 cup All-purpose Flour
  • 1 teaspoon Salt
  • 1 cup Buttermilk
  • 1/2 cup Milk
  • 1 whole Egg
  • 1 Tablespoon Baking Powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon Baking Soda

Preparation Instructions

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Heat lard in an cast iron skillet. Combine corn meal, flour, and salt in a mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, combine buttermilk, milk, and egg. Add baking powder and baking soda. Stir all ingredients together. Add ¼ cup melted lard, stirring constantly. Pour into hot cast iron pan, smoothing surface with spatula. Bake the cast iron cornbread for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown on top.

 

Here are the steps (more or less) in pictures:

 

Heat the lard in a cast iron skillet.


Heat Lard in Cast Iron Skillet


Mix dry ingredients and then mix wet ingredients.  Then combine all ingredients together.



Heat Cast Iron Skillet

 

 

Cook the bottom of the cornbread over heat for about a minute, (you should see a few bubbles).

 

 

Cook bottom of the cornbread, smooth out the top

 

 

Bake at 450 degrees for 20-25 minutes.


 

Bake 450 degrees 20-25 min

 

 

Serve with local honey!

 

Serve with Local Honey

 

 

The key to success of this cast iron cornbread recipe here in my opinion is the cast iron.  Give this recipe a try and let me know what you think down in the comments section.  I am sure that this cast iron cornbread will happily satisfy the hardest working homesteader appetite. 

 

Wilson

Pro Deo et Patria